Comforts of old Mexico

Casa Navarro reincarnates one of Dallas' original Tex-Mex restaurants

Oh, but it was a light meal, after all. Just Tostados Taxquenas, crisp tortillas piled with beans, beef, cheese, lettuce (that's what qualifies it for the light word), more guacamole, more sour cream. That was for me, the conservative palate and a candidate for jaw surgery due to TMJ.

My more robust companion ordered the Navarro Special, which would be suitable for someone coming in from the Biosphere who'd forgotten what real food tasted like. A chicken flauta, freshly fried, stuffed with white chicken meat (don't forget that guacamole and sour cream), a thick beef enchilada, a simple cheese enchilada, an enchilada ranchera...Of course you couldn't tell where one tortilla tube ended and another began. They were blanketed with sauce, cheese, jalape–os. Total overkill. Wonderful.

You, of course, know better than to order a dish like Carne Asada in a restaurant like this. But I am a critic, and since the steak plate is listed under specialties, I felt obligated, at least by my second visit, to give it a go, though I got no better than I expected. Thin disks of slightly tough beef, with beans and guacamole. Not a problem, since we'd filled up on nachos again.

I would expect the guisado to be good, however, and lunches look to be a deal--most of them are under $4. Combination plates are what those hordes want, though, and supreme combinations are what you get at Casa Navarro.

Casa Navarro, 11742-A Marsh Lane at Forest. 357-0141. Open Sunday-Thursday 9 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 9 a.m.-10 p.m.

Casa Navarro:
Bianca's Nachos $6.50
Fajita Nachos $7.35
Carne Asada $7.25
Navarro Special $6.50

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