Houston heavyweight

Chef Robert Del Grande's reputation carries as much weight as the ceramic platter at Cafe Express

And what about that special-recipe roasted chicken? The skin was crisp and brown; the meat, white and dark, was juicy and flavorful; the buttery juices had a whiff of ...taragon, confirmed the counter person... pleasant in the rosemary-tinged world of roast chicken.

Of course, when you think about it, taragon is a little more upscale.

Cafe Express, 4101 Belt Line Road, Addison, 991-9444. Open Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-midnight.

Cafe Express:
Vegetable Sandwich $4.95
Penne with Tomato Sauce $5.95
Half Roasted Chicken with Baked Potato and Salad $7.95
Mocha Gelato $1.

95

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