Two for the road

Martini Ranch mixes dozens of variations of the world's most famous cocktail

Martinis are pre-food drinks, anyway. Cold vodka with caviar is one thing; mostly it was pretty hard to hold on to our drinks through dinner. We tried the fried chicken, surprisingly good, a boneless breast in a crisp golden batter, with bland mashed potatoes, but this just isn't martini food. Pan-roasted salmon, which seems to mean sauteed, served with new potatoes, was a little more compatible, and of course, beef is a traditional follow-up to spirits. We wished our slice of tenderloin, sauteed, was rarer, but it was flavorful enough and came with a foil-wrapped baked potato with all the trimmings.

Dessert, a wedge of cold chocolate something, and a square of apple cobbler, tasteless except for the Haagen Dazs ice cream, had absolutely nothing to do with drinking martinis.

Martini Ranch, 2816 Cedar Springs at Fairmount, 220-2116 Open Monday-Saturday.

Martini Ranch:
Caviar, Half an Ounce of Osetra $9.75
Crab Claws $7.95
Pan Fried Chicken Breast, mashed potato and gravy $6.95
Pan Roasted Salmon with vegetable $10.25
James Bond's Fave $5.25
Dean Martini $5
Chocolate Martini $5.75

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