Hot Dish

It is only right that institutions are slow to change. They shouldn't be subject to the whims and wishes of fashion and trends--they should move at the pace of history. So it is really big news that S & D Oyster Company, on McKinney, has added a new menu item. S & D has long been known for its broiled fish, poorboys, oysters, and shrimp. And not only does its menu, old-fashioned white-tablecloth service, and ceiling fans recall the mother of Gulf seafood, New Orleans. Its attitude is also typical--easily summed up as, what more could you want? The answer is barbecued shrimp. Not skewered or grilled like a Texan would do, but slathered in hot spices (that's where the barbecue comes in) till they're impossible to eat without a bib (provided), and irresistible. A New Orleans classic, made famous at Manale's, and now on McKinney.

--Mary Brown Malouf

S & D Oyster Company, 2701 McKinney Ave., 880-0111.