Cattle call

Looking for a good, reasonably priced steak? Texas Land &Cattle Co. has your beef

Mashed potatoes here are slightly grotesque, served in a steep bowl with a flood of melted butter congealing in stagnant pools in the potato peaks and valleys. I like butter, but those slicks were daunting. On the other hand, a veg du jour was plain broccoli, beaucoup broccoli, I might add, and very plain, starkly steamed and piled on a plate, with very little grease or seasoning. Also, unusually, there's a baked sweet potato on the menu, a simple, good thing to eat, but you don't see them very often. We liked it plain, just with butter, a better accompaniment than the melted cinnamon sugar butter sauce served on the side.

The spicy Caesar salad really did have a cayenne bite, though otherwise the dressing had no character at all. French fries--sorry, "Texas fries"--were good, and to my mind, the best thing to eat with steak, along with a plain salad, although the baked potato was pretty good, too.

The whole place was pretty good, and since evidently steaks have to be eaten in a men's club or Texas atmosphere, make mine Texan. Texas Land & Cattle Co.'s beef is cheerfully served, flavorful and, for beef, affordable.

Yippee-Ki-Yay.

Texas Land & Cattle Co., 3130 Lemmon Ave., 526-4664. Open Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Friday-Sunday 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m.

Texas Land & Cattle Company:
Texas onion strings $4.95
Sliced smoked sirloin (10 oz.) $12.95
The North Texas strip $16.95
Tilapia fillet $14.95
Fried pickles $3.95

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