Gutter ball

The food at the Bronco Bowl Sports Grill scores a zero

Twenty minutes later the burger arrived with mustard, no lettuce or tomato in sight, the beef patty overcooked to gray rubberiness, and sans fries. Luckily, the soft tacos came three to a plate, so we could share. White meat of chicken was folded into a flour tortilla glued together with melted yellow cheese; a scoop of cream cheese and some salsa moistened things somewhat.

That made three strikes in one night, and we were outta there. The concert was great. The new arena is comfortable with good sight lines and sound. The lanes look shiny and new, and the whole Bowl echoes with the noise of TV screens, arcade guns, and the background rumble of falling pins. The sensory overload makes the place feel like a Chuck E. Cheese for grownups. If you stick to music and bowling, like Lou Reed did himself after his show, you'll have a good time. But I'll be stopping off at La Calle Doce first for dinner next time.

The On-Air Sports Bar & Grill at the Bronco Bowl, 2600 Fort Worth Avenue, 943-1777. Open Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

On-Air Sports Bar & Grill at the Bronco Bowl:
TNTs $2.79
Bronco Burger $4.25
Soft Tacos $4.95
Grilled Chicken Breast Sandwich $4.55
French-Fried Potatoes $1.49

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