Hot Dish

Perhaps I actually just grew out of a craving for the flavor, but I consider myself a recovered chocoholic. I no longer lust for the dark sweetness of chocolate desserts, and when there's a choice, fruit or plain vanilla are the flavors I treat myself to. Still, sometimes only chocolate will do, and when that's the case, it's good to know that the best chocolate cookie in town may still be had at Massimo's. Baci di lassio, little chewy swirls of chocolate meringue, stuck together with chocolate icing, are typically Italian--sexy, intense, stylish. Baci means "kisses," and the name is apt: these irresistible mouthfuls are an indulgence it's easy to excuse, a luxury it's easy to afford, an addiction it's permissible to relapse into.

--Mary Brown Malouf

Massimo's, 5519 W. Lovers Lane. Other locations.