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By Mary Brown Malouf

Published on April 10, 1997

Wolfgang Puck serves imaginative, artistic-themed food at the Governor's Ball--just like the gold originals, his chocolate Oscars are reserved for the glamorous few. But most of America watched the Academy Awards while eating pizza in front of the tube, and our only real creative expression was which pizza. Our pie of choice came from the venerable Marco's, which expresses a real commitment to quality because Marco's, with real New York attitude, doesn't deliver. You have to go pick it up, even though the corner location in Preston Royal has all the ambiance of a doctor's office, and the person who waits on you will have the stony charm of an IRS auditor. Is it worth the inconvenience and humiliation? Some say yes. The thin but strong crust, bearing up heroically under the dark sauce, the judicious layering of meat and vegetables--this pie deserves an award.

--Mary Brown Malouf

Marco's Pizza, 1014 Preston Royal Plaza, (214) 363-6122