The cheesesteak, a dish indigenous to Philadelphia, has crept like kudzu onto fast food menus all across the country, and for the most part, who cares? Seldom is this sandwich worth a deviation from the strict burger line. But New England Cheesesteaks, a humble little storefront shop in Plano run by a couple of guys from Austin, saves you a trip to Philly to find out why the cheesesteak rules there. This is a wonder, more than the sum of its parts, which is the definition of a good sandwich. Layers of savory, griddled beef are mellowed with melted cheese and mingled with strips of wilted peppers and onions, served on airy but chewy French bread (possibly the most important component)--the best example we've found of the cheesesteak outside its natural habitat.