Where to go for Sunday brunch is one of those frequently asked unanswerables. I don't do brunch often myself--there's something depressing about those long, silver-lidded lines of food, and brunch menus tend to be too rich for the time of day. But a raw bar is a natural, so when you combine seafood with a brunch, you have a pretty appealing meal. Fish, the seafood restaurant in the refurbished Paramount Hotel, is a pretty perfect morning place--window-lined and light-filled--and chef Chris Svalesen's champagne menu includes seafood specialties like crab cakes and Chilean sea bass, as well as the raw bar, and even traditional breakfast foods like made-to-order omelettes, waffles, and pastries. $19.95 served from 10:30 a.m. till 2 p.m.