Skyscraper chow

This dissonance was amplified with the fish. The swordfish tacos, subbed with chunks of tequila-assaulted halibut, were rolled in thick, cumbersome corn tortillas with salsa verde. The fish was sweet and supple, but the tacos could have used some lettuce, onion, and tomato filler to add fresh crunch and tang as well as to neutralize the tequila.

But even without tequila, some of the dishes had a hard time keeping their footing. Though a relative value at $13.95, the filet mignon was chewy, mealy, and void of fresh meat richness. The only worthy flavor was provided by a light, tangy chipotle sauce. A side of grilled potatoes, onions, and bell pepper were hearty and flavorful, but the bed of spinach supporting the filet was overcooked and bitter.

By far the best entree sampled, the grilled baja shrimp, bravely strolled the edge between balanced richness and choking cholesteric overkill. Fat, glistening shrimp are stuffed with Monterey cheese and bits of jalapeno then swaddled in thick slices of bacon before they're tossed on the grill. It yielded a sweet, smoky knob of flesh with pleasing creaminess. The only drawback to the assembly--at times producing a mild revulsion--was that the bacon was fatty and undercooked, rendering some pieces stringy and slimy. A dessert of flan, however, capped things off amicably with a firm but smooth, creamy texture and a rich burnt-sugar flavor edged with a lime tang.

Departing from its Oak Lawn sibling only in its arty, sophisticated decor, the Addison version of this Mexican cafe, opened this past spring, will serve as a blueprint for an expansion of the restaurant in other states. And the tequila emphasis--far more successful in Addison than in Oak Lawn--coupled with the ambiance is vigorously attractive. But the menu needs some honing to match the curiosity-piquing sparkle of its bar focus.

The Yorkshire Club. 325 North St. Paul, Tower II, 48th Floor; (214) 871-2001. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Open for happy hour Monday-Thursday 5-8 p.m.

Mattito's. 5290 Beltline Road (at Montfort), Addison; (972) 503-8100. Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

Readers with comments may e-mail Mark Stuertz at markstz@juno.com.

The Yorkshire Club:
Crispy chicken spring roll $4.75
Jalapeno-grilled tuna $11.25
Chicken pot pie $7.50
White chocolate custard $3.75

Mattito's Cafe Mexicano:
Wild mushroom quesadillas $7.95
Baja shrimp $16.95
Swordfish tacos $12.95
Filet Mignon $13.95