Pleasure chained

Mediterraneo at the Quadrangle is even better than itself

A A A Comments By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Dec 11 1997

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The steak Diane, a piece of tenderloin topped with large mushroom slices in a Bordelais sauce, was adequately flavorful, and the sauce was surprisingly light and savory. But the meat was unevenly done--medium rare in some places, well-done in others--and it was tough in spots.

The wine list is another component that could use some sparkle. Composed almost exclusively of California and French selections, the list is thin and uninteresting. Red Burgundy is poorly represented (as is California pinot noir), and the white wine listing is packed with far too many unimaginatively selected chardonnays from the likes of Kendall Jackson, Beringer, and Jordan. But Ray says the list is due a makeover.

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East Wind Quadrangle

2800 Routh St.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

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Perhaps the most disappointing offering, especially for a traditional French restaurant, was the strawberry souffle. It was thoroughly unappealing, with runny innards, a lack of fruit richness, and an overwhelming eggy flavor. Better is Les Saisons' version of tiramisu: a light, visually appealing preparation that was creamy, moist, and not intensely sweet with dribbles of bright, golden yellow mango sauce crisscrossed over the plate and a dusting of nuts on the frosting.

While Les Saisons offers genuinely sincere, professional service that is as attentive as it is gracious, the overall effect still seems a bit tired. The decor works hard to create its French country ambiance, and the menu could stand some imaginative tweaking, perhaps with fresher ingredients. Plus, the prices are a bit steep for what you get. But a little charisma on the plate would go a long way toward remedying that.

Mediterraneo at the Quadrangle, 2800 Routh Street; (214) 979-0002. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Open for dinner Monday-Wednesday, 6 p.m-10:30 p.m.; Thursday-Sunday, 6 p.m.-11:30 p.m.

Les Saisons, The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn, Suite 110, at Cedar Springs; (214) 528-1102, Open for lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m. Open for brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Mediterraneo at the Quadrangle:
Savory grilled gulf shrimp $9.50
Beef carpaccio $9.50
Horseradish-crabmeat-crusted halibut $20.50
Roasted tenderloin of beef Provencal $28
Fresh baked apple crisp $6

Les Saisons:
Lobster cream with Riesling wine $5.50
Poached fresh salmon $16.50
Strawberry souffle $7.00

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