Grand hotel

The Adolphus' French Room offers courses in dining elegance

But perhaps the most confusing item was the dessert, an apple tarte tatin--a layered and inverted tart topped with caramelized apples. The crust resembled a spongy cake instead of pastry and was soggy with the juices and caramel. Plus, the five thick apple slices, a short stack of sorts, was difficult to cut with a fork without dissembling the whole construction.

Maritz, Wolff & Co., an L.A.-based investment firm that owns a 50 percent stake in Dallas-based Rosewood Hotels, recently purchased half interest in the Dallas, New Orleans, and San Francisco Fairmont Hotels along with half of Fairmont Management Co., which operates the chain's hotels. The company already held a stake in the Fairmont Hotel in San Jose.

Edwards says that while the 550-room Dallas Fairmont will undergo a massive multimillion-dollar renovation, the Pyramid Room will be left untouched, as it underwent a $1.8 million renovation several years ago. Maybe they should rethink this.

French Room, Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce, (214) 742-8200. Open 6-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.

Pyramid Room, Fairmont Hotel. 1717 N. Akard, (214) 720-5249. Open 6-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday.

Dish it out at markstz@juno.com.

French Room:
Courses include choice of appetizers, soup & salad, main course and dessert:
Two-course dinner $45
Three-course dinner $55
Four-course dinner $65

Pyramid Room:
Table d' hote (four course) $39
Maine crab cake $10
Caesar Salad $8
Herb-crusted rack of Sonoma lamb $29

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