Custer's grand stand

Yet overall, the Laurels experience is richly rewarding, even if some of the menu creations seem pointlessly busy. Custer's daring adventurousness is infectious, and it's hard to leave the place without expanding your culinary horizon. At this point, it's difficult to gauge the impact she will eventually have on the Dallas restaurant scene, but I'll bet it's significant. This town is more than fortunate she is here. And who knows? If Custer is able to build on the successes she has already achieved, she may eventually be searing her scallops from the cockpit of a Ferrari.