O'Dowd's Little Dublin dresses well, but eats unkempt

I really wanted to like your house-smoked salmon ($6.95), because it looked so good and fresh. The fish is firm and moist, but it's bland, and the layer of smoke is wimpy and hollow. The sides of apple-walnut chutney and a cucumber-caper relish with parsley, onion, and capers were both good, though.

But what's up with that half a hen ($9.50)? Though you say this bifurcated pullet is oven-roasted with lemon and herbs, it's a little slimy (no hint of oven-roasted crispness) with an odd taste, as if the poor bird had been freezer-burned and boiled. Plus, the colcannon potatoes (mashed potatoes and cabbage) were bland and dry.

The glass is half empty.
Tracy Powell
The glass is half empty.


daily 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

daily 5-10 p.m.


2614 McKinney Ave.

(214) 981-9100

Now, Mr. O'Dowd, I don't know how intimately involved you are in your pub. Your press materials say O'Dowd's is owned by Kansas City-based Auld Dubliner Pubs Inc. and that this is the second unit after the Kansas City unit with a third due in the metroplex by the end of the year. But I wonder whether you might consider a couple of things before you expand. For starters, polish up those fish and chips (less batter, hotter oil, and try chilling the fish before you fry it) and sharpen the corned beef and cabbage. Work your menu tweaks from there, because overall this pub has a good feel, and if the food were as good as the ambience, there wouldn't be anything to worry about. And right now I have a big worry: I'm getting tired of stuffed sow's paunch.

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