French Kiss

Paris in Plano

For sipping your custom drinks, Mignon has a long mahogany bar. It also has a private wine space dubbed the "black beret room," a chamber that everyone seems to stick their faces into as they wait by the hostess stand to be seated, so private is relative. More private might be two corners in the restaurant that hold urgently rousing pinkish and fuzzy coiled banquettes. They look like a curled carrot shaving.

And the pork chop paillard looks like a lean-to. A bone-in piece of pork, pounded and spread into a tarp-like state, was perched on a mound of horseradish mashed potatoes. Those potatoes were smooth and tasty. The meat, however, was dry and tough at the edges, though once the interior was traversed, it grew moist and delicious with inky splashes of balsamic glaze puddling in the meat depressions.

Cast-iron chicken started out dry and remained dry through and through. Pieces of meat are marinated, cast-iron grilled, pierced with wood skewers, and crowded with a chorus of pommes frites. French onion soup is carpeted with thick sheets of Swiss Gruyère and provolone. It's thick with flavor as well, though perhaps more sweet than anything. A more zestful kick inserted somewhere would have helped it mesh with the palate better, but it was still satisfyingly rich.

How do you turn Plano into Paris? Just add Audrey Hepburn. No, we don't get it either.
Stephen P. Karlisch
How do you turn Plano into Paris? Just add Audrey Hepburn. No, we don't get it either.

Location Info

Map

Mignon

4005 Preston Road, #518
Plano, TX 75093

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Plano

Details

Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily; Open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday. (972) 943-3372

Tableside Caesar Salad: $7
French Onion Soup: $4.50
Salmon Duet: $11
Half-dozen Oysters: $10
Cast-iron Chicken: $6.75
Steak Tartare: $8
Pork Chop Paillard: $17
Steak Frites: $16
Striped Bass: $19
Bone-in Shell Steak: $25
Lemon Doberge: $5

4005 Preston Road, Plano

Tableside Caesar, with a dressing blended tableside, worked well too. The dressing surged with anchovy and sizzled with lemon, skirting the timidity of most Caesar recipes.

Pan-seared striped bass was as busy as the press-material description of Mignon. The fish is girded, surrounded, and otherwise buried by a ragtag ragout of fragmented kalamatas, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, and caramelized onions, among other things that were hard to decipher without a field guide. The fish, lightly floured, was buttery and moist, but even that was hard to tell beneath this overly busy heap.

At Mignon, you can finish things off with a variety of sweeteners, including the ubiquitous crème brûlée, chocolate truffle cheesecake, and lemon Doberge, the last being a delicately arranged, somewhat dense layered cookie-like cake thingamajig surrounded by a puddle of strawberry sauce. It was good but a bit gritty with sugar.

For all of its somewhat tongue-in-cheek pretensions, Mignon is a thoroughly enjoyable and spirited place, and if you don't pick nits too much, the food is downright terrific. You can even bring your French poodle on the patio if you want, in true French style. Just keep it away from the blender and the microwave. They're hazards, you know.

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