Tub Steak

The Keg Steakhouse invites you to come-as-you-are.

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Feb 15 2001

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The Keg was launched in 1971 in North Vancouver, British Columbia, and it spread into Seattle a short time later. Now a chain with more than 80 restaurants under its belt, Keg Restaurants Ltd. sees this Fort Worth location as the beginning of its red-meat encroachment into the land of steak. The company promises several more Texas steakhouses in places such as Addison, Grapevine, and other metroplex spots.

And like most steakhouses to be found in these parts, there's more to be had than just steak. Keg steakologists also serve seafood and pork, as well. Honey-barbecued ribs, a grilled rack of pork back spindles, were meaty and moist without much fattiness. And though there was a dearth of sauce varnishing these pork babies upon delivery, an ample little dish of viscously brisk sweet honey lubricant was provided. Wet naps would have made these ribs taste even better.

Stephen P. Karlisch

You'd stare in fascination too, if you knew how much it costs the Keg to burn natural gas logs now.

Location Info

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The Keg Steakhouse & Bar

5760 SW Loop 820 @ Bryant-Irvin Road
Fort Worth, TX 76132

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Fort Worth

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Details

Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday & Saturday; 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. Sunday

$$-$$$

5760 SW Loop 820 @ Bryant-Irvin Road, Fort Worth

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When applied to salmon, the steakology didn't work as well. The bright pink fish was dry and dense. All the flakiness had been cooked out of it. Yet a fascinating singed orange and lemon zest herb topping kept it from descending into culinary malfeasance, which can't be said of the heavy, pasty garlic potatoes that included no perceptible presence of this bulbous herb.

But that doesn't mean things can't be enjoyed around the edges of this Keg. The baked French onion soup, a beef broth-based crock of potency with Spanish onion slurry diked with a lid of gooey Swiss and Parmesan cheeses, was founded on a clean light broth--maybe too light. Those onions could have been cooked down a little more to intensify the sweet rich onion flavor a bit.

Served warm, the apple crumble is a classic case of unsophisticated heartwarming goo instilled with crunch. Enveloped in caramel viscosity, this hearty dessert was topped with a pair of vanilla ice cream scoops and populated by too few apple wedges. Still, it was good, as this restaurant is overall. It's a fine place to visit and drink and eat and use sharp knives during dinner.