Suze Does

It's all about romance

Which is how the service can be sometimes. The same thing that makes Suze so cozy and inviting--its intimacy--can also make it congested. This space works very hard, and sometimes things get so tangled that service nearly grinds to a halt. It took 15 minutes to get our entrée plates cleared and our dessert ordered. Still, the servers are gracious and attentive. And while the space may be hard to work for the wait staff, you don't feel cramped or uncomfortably compressed, even though you are just a bit. This space has so much fresh character and personality that it simply opens up, leaving you with a memory of understated style and sophistication.

That unassuming quality comes across in the food as well. Grilled tuna steak, coated with cracked pepper and sesame seeds, was rich, firm, tender, and void of any of the stringy toughness and fishy smells that low-grade tuna can impart. Though ordered rare, this steak was closer to medium, with a grayish tinge dueling a pink core. It was settled in a ginger soy broth with wilted baby bok choy that was light instead of overly salted or rich, which could have muddled the tuna flavors.

Baby rack of thyme-crusted Jamison lamb slathered with whole-grain mustard arrived as three ribs severed and fanned loosely in a semicircle. The meat was silky sweet and juicy with the coarse mustard giving the flesh the subtlest of sparks. The lamb was settled in a merlot reduction strewn with mint leaves, giving the already well-balanced flavors some levity. A side of diced potatoes lay alongside snow peas, baby carrots, and strips of bell pepper, seeming almost superfluous, though they didn't detract from the masterful execution.

The secret is out: Chef Gilbert Garza's Suze is one of Dallas' finest restaurants.
Stephen P. Karlisch
The secret is out: Chef Gilbert Garza's Suze is one of Dallas' finest restaurants.

Location Info

Map

Suze Restaurant

4345 W. NW Highway, 270
Dallas, TX 75220

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Northwest Dallas

Details

(214) 350-6135. Open 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$-$$$

Smoked salmon carpaccio: $10
Seared foie gras: $14
Buffalo mozzarella salad: $8
Grilled Chilean Sea bass: $21
Baby rack of thyme-crusted Jamison lamb: $26
Crispy young chicken: $17
Grilled tuna steak: $26
Truffle cake: $6

4345 W. Northwest Highway at Midway Road, #720

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Even dessert had that same steadiness. The chocolate truffle cake was a moist, rich, but not overwhelming puff of chocolate topped with whipped cream and a slice of strawberry. This simple assembly was surrounded by beads of creme caramel sauce.

Since its inception, Suze has always been a very good restaurant. Not surprisingly, it has come a long way under Garza's grip. He's exploited its charms and enhanced the food offerings immeasurably, making it one of Dallas' finest restaurants. That this cuisine can be had at prices that are roughly two-thirds of what you might pay at one of Dallas' other top restaurants just makes it all the more enticing. Even when it comes with flashing headlights and pulsating car horns.

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