Go West for Wine

There are plenty of surprises at Sapristi!

A A A Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, May 10 2001

Rotisserie-roasted Long Island duck was a valiant effort and one that's damn fun to pair with cheap palatable swills on a bistro wine list. Still, this mostly moist duck flesh was tough and hard to cut, let alone chew. It's offered with a choice of green peppercorn sauce or a raspberry glaze. The peppercorn sauce is a brisk cloud of feverish pangs. And while it was noted on the menu that the duck skin was crispy, it was to some extent, though maybe not enough to compensate for leatheriness of the interior. The duck was side-saddled with a small crowd of moist roasted potatoes and julienne vegetables.

Grilled chicken breast niçoise was savory but slightly flawed as well. Sections of moist breast were flush with comely grill flavor, and white crumbles of goat cheese that dotted the chicken musculature here and there added richness. The plump breasts rested on a bed of linguini drizzled with virgin olive oil and sat next to a tiny patch of chopped tomato and black-olive salad sewn with a little basil. The array was delicious, but it seemed to lack a merging bit of viscosity, like a light sauce that would, if nothing else, loosely tie the linguini to the chicken.

Stephen P. Karlisch

Sapristi! expertly merges a casual approach with a focus on good wine.

Location Info

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Sapristi! Bistro & Wine Bar

2418 Forest Park Blvd.
Fort Worth, TX 76110

Category: Restaurant > Modern European

Region: Fort Worth

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Details

(817) 924-7231. Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. $$-$$$

Antipasto from the sea: $12.95
Soup (cup): $3.45
Fresh mozzarella and tomato salad: $4.95
PST sandwich: $6.95
Grilled chicken niĉoise: $12.95
Roasted duck: $16.95
Apple tart: $4.95

2418 Forest Park Blvd., Fort Worth

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An apple tart with whipped cream and caramel sauce for dessert was an engaging topper; its predecessors on the rest of the menu served the meal much better.

Sapristi! is the living embodiment of the casual approach that should be exerted when entertaining a wine focus. It's neither carelessly lackadaisical nor militantly effete. The fact that this place is smart about its looseness just doubles the pleasure. Maybe Dallas will get one of these.