By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Though the swordfish wasn't hampered or improved by a glass of chardonnay, the wine list is a bit sparse, but it's a minor flaw. (Consider this a word of caution to all Texas fine-dining establishments: Simply because the restaurant resides in Texas doesn't mean it has to serve Texas wines.) A few more well-chosen options would do wonders for a menu that has such an idiosyncratic tastefulness that could get buried by a robust cabernet sauvignon or an overly fruity merlot.
Try to save some room for dessert, however, because Debailleul hasn't skimped on that area of the menu either. A few of the options seem a bit too exotic--an apple tart served with a balsamic vinegar ice cream--but the others are recognizable sweet-tooth fare. The banana Napoleon, a multi-tiered ensemble of pastry crisps, cream and bananas, came out looking like one of Rem Koolhaas' gravity-defying designs, and you almost felt bad about upsetting its precarious balance by digging a spoon into it. Almost, that is.
Lunch features a few variations on the dinner menu, with the added addition of some mild twists on the basics, such as the Classic Black Angus Burger (an 8-ounce patty served with lettuce, tomato, onion, smoked bacon and cheddar cheese) and the Legacy Burger (a 10-ounce patty served with American cheese and sautéed onions), as well as daily specials. The Oriental chicken salad appeared thoroughly mixed and proportioned, giving the salad the visual panache of a stir-fry rather than a bed of greens on which various Asian accoutrements are laid. The Caesar salad, however, was only acceptable. The Caesar dressing was certainly perky, and the fresh Parmesan flakes were an expected indulgence, but the croutons were a bit bland. Perhaps the Caesar--with its straight-ahead allegiance to the norm--suffered by comparison to a menu that so obviously relished playing variations on a theme.
Baby spinach and watercress salad: $7
Swordfish steak: $21
Creamed spinach with potato shallot
Banana Napoleon: $5.95
Caesar salad: $7.95
But when a forgettable Caesar salad is about the only thing wrong with a menu that takes some playful risks with uniformly appealing results, it's hardly a reason to complain. And if the Legacy Grill can pull off this sort of delicate flamboyance in Frisco, it makes you wonder what North Texas holds in store next. Nouveau continental Cambodian cuisine à la Sottha Khun's Le Cirque in Cedar Hill? You never know.