Taking It Downtown

The Metropolitan could give Dallas some much-needed vitality

Our prayers were answered in the form of pork, that other white meat that used to turn people green if it wasn't cooked into a flak vest. This was the star of the menu. Heck, this would be the star of any menu, and it only costs 14 bucks. It wasn't pink in the center, but it was soaked with juice and plush with tenderness. The chop lounged on a bed of Granny Smith apples and was dressed with restrained doses of honey and thyme, creating an appealing range of flavors that were more savory than sweet.

Meat loaf was also good, but not so much because of the meat--a mixture of ground veal and sirloin--but because of how it was stuffed and dressed. The interior was infested with portobello mushrooms and spinach, which injected some earthy consonance. But the tomato gravy pushed it over the top. This sauce was brisk and rich, a tonic to jab the palate out of meat-loaf idleness.

Dessert suffered from the same waffles as the entrée slate. The blueberry crisp, topped with walnuts, was dry and pasty, more like a Powerbar than a meal finale. In contrast, the seven-layer chocolate cake bulged with chocolate richness, but not the kind that clogs your taste buds with a cloying blitzkrieg. This was deft richness.

The Metropolitan adds a touch of class to downtown. Now, about that menu...
Stephen Karlisch
The Metropolitan adds a touch of class to downtown. Now, about that menu...

Location Info

Map

The Metropolitan Cafe

2032 Main St.
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Restaurant > Eclectic

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

Details

214-977-9205. Open 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday. $$-$$$

Chicken lettuce wraps: $8
Skewers: $7.50
Ahi tuna salad: $11
10-ounce fillet: $21.50
Surf and turf: $38
Pan-roasted halibut: $18
Meat loaf: $11
Chicken scallopini piccata: $10.50
Fruit crisp: $5
Chocolate cake: $6.50

Main Street at Stone Street Gardens

The Metropolitan is the work of Joe Tillotson, Scott Cecil and Richard Winfield, who drafted such Dallas relics as the Barley House, East Side Grill and Muddy Waters. Here, they've thrown the dice on downtown (Jeroboam's success notwithstanding). If they could just get the spatulas to turn up sevens more consistently, they might be able to move on to building The Metropolitan into a Victorian-style house of evening vigor. Let's pray they do. Dallas desperately needs this strain of vitality.

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