By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Instead of brisk and energetic, the effect is kind of grating and fatiguing. Service is the same way, with erratic pacing, abrupt execution and scant menu knowledge.
There's a trickle-down effect to the menu. Curry puffs, chalky half-moon turnovers allegedly stuffed with minced chicken, potato, onion and curry, tasted suspiciously like Underwood Deviled...something. Far from "minced," whatever protein substance was injected into these things had been pulverized into a paste with fishy overtones. They were served with an engaging, if searing, cucumber salsa.
5321 E. Mockingbird Lane
Dallas, TX 75206-5185
Region: East Dallas & Lakewood
Curry puff: $6.96
Shrimp roll-up: $7.95
Seafood lover's: $14.95
Duck basil: $10.95
Steamed salmon ginger: $14.95
Pad Thai: $8.95
Shrimp roll-ups looked like a collection of scrolls. Five shrimp swaddled in a greasy, crisp, egg-roll-like coating were arranged on a bed of soy vinaigrette-washed greens. The greens were flaccid, with significant browning along the edges.
Entrées were a mixed bag. High notes include the peculiarly named dish "seafood lover's," a mix of scallops, calamari, minced shrimp and mussels in curry sauce. The seafood specimens were all firm and tasty, even the large slice of creamy surimi edged in Day-Glo magenta.
Pad Thai worked well, too. Sautéed rice noodles were separate and supple, bean sprouts were crisp and the sauce contained a restrained sweetness. The top of the dish was scattered with fried egg and tofu scraps.
Though alluringly fragrant, steamed salmon ginger with snow peas, peppers and Chinese mushrooms in rice wine was overcooked, with dry flesh that refused to flake.
Chef's favorite duck basil was a generous dispersal of juicy boneless duck pieces in a delicious basil-chili sauce over spicy pan-fried lo mein and a warm snow pea salad. But the duck was afflicted with an off, sweet and sour flavor.
Noodles Kitchen is a vexing dining experience with laudable ambitions and frayed details. This could be a terrific noodle hut. All it needs is some fit and finish. Dumping the apostrophe on seafood lover's might be a good start.