King's Ransom

The Drálion's ostrich is marinated in lemongrass, coriander, cumin, turmeric and fennel and slumped over mushrooms and sautéed leeks. It's juicy and tasty--a feat of sorts as this meat often comes off like extremely lean beef, but without the lustiness.

And Drálion has plenty of that. The room is dark and imposing with lots of metal, hardwood floors, heavy velvet draperies and elaborate candelabra--kind of a Phantom of the Opera motif if the Phantom fiddled with a drum machine instead of a pipe organ. Yes, you now can chew on buffalo to those slick techno thumps and electronically badgered female voices that everyone seems to want to hear when they're on the hunt. Parked near the long wood and marble bar is a quadrant for the DJ, who we trust isn't a pious and flatulent vegan like Moby. Where's Ted Nugent when you need him?

Karlisch

Here be dragons--if you count alligators, that is.

Details

Thai eggplant $12
Alligator egg rolls $15.95
Maine scallops $12.95
Wild boar sausage $9
Porterhouse $32
Ostrich tenderloin $32.95
Elk tenderloin $34.95
Arctic char $30.95
Crème brûlée $8

Closed Location

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• Newt Gingrich
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• Napa
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• Food and Cooking

To go with all of this game and thump crud, The Drálion has what is titled "Petite Wine Book, Odyssey of Wines." It's a well-stocked global portfolio listing the grape varietal and winemaker for each wine and offering 45 wines by the glass. Wine service is stellar, too, with knowledgeable staff and Riedel glassware. Yet other than wine, service was a little haphazard with perpetually interchanging servers resulting in bottlenecked and delayed requests.

Pan-seared arctic char, 8 ounces of fish marinated in Thai basil, mint and other stuff and served with a coriander ginger sauce, was mushy and bland despite all the fiddling. Surprisingly, wok-sautéed eggplant, a side, wasn't mushy at all. Still, the well-seasoned and flavorful vegetable sheathed in a tender skin rang in at 12 bucks--pretty steep for an ovoid fruit bounced in a wok.

Crème brûlée was a boat filled with pasty custard topped with a weak, unsinged sugar lid, one that had presumably never been kissed by a flame. Where's the dragon when you need him? And what does he charge?

3102 Oak Lawn Ave., Suite 110, 214-219-6880. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m. Monday-Wednesday; 5:30 p.m.-12 a.m. Thursday & Friday; 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Saturday. $$$-$$$$