Tough Sledding

Rosebud is far from a work of genius

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Apr 3 2003

But there was a bump in the transition. Cordon bleu, a special, was founded on chicken that was dry, and prosciutto wasn't well dispersed, fresh and light though it was.

Pecan-crusted trout was as well herbed and delicious as it was moist, rich in that subtle sweet aftertaste that gives trout such understated allure. Equally compelling were the scalloped potatoes, rich and creamy with hints of smoke, though a little more scorching over the top would have been welcome.

Karlisch

Welles done: Unlike the movie from which its name spawned, Rosebud is an uneven experience.

Location Info

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Angela's Bistro 51

2701 Guillot St.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant > Eclectic

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

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Details

Escargot $8.50
Crab cakes $8.50
Scallops $8.50
Crusted chicken breast $13.95
Linguini $14.95
Pork loin $16.95
Trout $15.95
Rack of lamb $19.95
Duck breast $18.95
Grilled salmon $17.95
Sticky toffee $6

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Almond-crusted chicken in caper lemon cream sauce was a socks knocker. This moist and thin breast was feathery with a smooth understated balance. Plus, despite its implied fried crispness, nearly resembling something that was battered and fried deep, it wasn't the least bit greasy.

Grilled salmon in basil butter sauce reached these same heights, with flaky, healthy pink flesh that was rich in robust, yet clean, flavors.

While it didn't reach these lofty positions, roasted duck in rosemary orange sauce was notable. Strips of juicy and rosy-gray breast meat were positioned among slips of crisped golden skin. Though the meat was a little pliable, it was rife with flavor.

Strangely, dessert kind of did a nerd squat. Sticky toffee, slices of cake drenched in a toffee sauce, was cloying and unimaginative, kind of like eating a thick flapjack in a syrup flood. Or bellowing about jug wines with the earnestness of a Last Supper speaker.

2701 Guillot, 214-468-0919. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday (tea menu served until 4 p.m. Saturday). Open for dinner 6 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday (pre-theater dinner menu served 5 p.m.-6:30 p.m. Monday-Friday). $$-$$$