By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Which means results are hard to explain. The best part of the nori ahi tuna, for example, never had fins. Nuzzled next to a little ramekin of ponzu sauce snuggled up to a pair of rare seared tuna wedges (more gray than red) was a thick asparagus-mango egg roll. Sublime moment, that. Soft instead of hard, the won ton was loosely folded over asparagus stalks cut lengthwise and a torn strip of mango flecked with bell pepper and a little cilantro. These parts blended so seamlessly, it was difficult to pull one from the other. Was I eating mango and asparagus or a gadget from Monsanto? Mango sweetness and grassy asparagus bitterness married into something else. Yum again.
Though the tuna was moist and pleasantly speckled with seaweed, it was slightly fishy. Yet visually the plate resembled a still life, which sometimes include dead fish.
Which was not unlike the appearance of the five-spice duck satay. Coils of daikon radish, beet, carrot--a wiry tangle of orange, deep red and ivory--rested in one corner while a silo of charred pineapple relish sat not far away. I braced for a gush of sweet. Instead, I was struck with a broad range of savory flavors--tang, earthiness, a little heat--with the sugar receding to the background. Sweet was no doubt beaten back by peppers, red onion, cilantro and charring, but there was just enough there to accent the deliciously juicy skewered strips of duck breast. On this same wintry note, juicy luau pork medallions shingled with leeks were stunning.
Pomme frites were dismal, which is a shame. This spud ruckus had as much appeal as anything on the menu. A rat's nest of chow mein-like potato and sweet potato strings were pleasantly tangled and coiled together, but they proved flaccid and greasy.
Zach Hopkins, a young one-time general manager at Angeluna in downtown Fort Worth, launched Urban Tapas. He's a spittin' image of actor Matthew McConaughey. So much so, Hopkins easily could pull off the naked bongo-drumming, ganja-puffing high jinks that got the actor arrested in Austin a few years back and bluff stargazers everywhere. Pulling off an urban pose will be much harder for The Village at Colleyville.
62 Main St., No. 200, Colleyville, 817-281-4068. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday. $-$$$