By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
On the night in question, it was possible to convert each meat offering--steak, lamb, pork chop, chicken breast--into a classic surf 'n turf with the addition of a lobster tail and 25 bucks tacked onto the bill. We decided to traverse this course with lamb chops. The tail arrived on the plate with grilled corn on the cob and a metal ramekin of butter sauce. My companion pulled the meat from the tail, releasing a billow of steam. It was odd. The meat wasn't plump and white as one might expect; it was limp and fibrous, with a dull, brownish tinge. Was liver trouble lodged somewhere in its briny medical history?
He carved a piece and put it on my plate, glancing up at me to see if the bait would snap me out of my "cowboy cut" bone-in funk. Then he carved a piece for himself and plunged it into the ramekin; bringing it to his lips just as I caught a whiff of danger. "Don't put that in your mouth," I yelled. "What?" he said. "Sniff," I shot back.
And in that moment, our nostrils were simultaneously greeted with a strong acrid stench of ammonia, with hints of sulfur tossed in to add olfactory interest. The table suddenly smelled like boiled main library entrance. Either this was a much-yearned-for Saddam-sequestered WMD cache, or the decomposition process in this tail was well under way. It's difficult to believe that this odor wasn't prominent during the preparation and cooking process, indicating either the chef had his eye (and nose) well off the ball (and arse), or he was a flagrant violator of the Geneva convention.
1101 Cheek Sparger Road
Colleyville, TX 76034-4198
Region: Mid-Cities (H-E-B)
Either way, Bradley's is one turf that doesn't surf.
1101 Cheek Sparger Road, #122A, Colleyville, 817-577-4688. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; open for dinner 4 p.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$