By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Neither oxidized shiraz nor California merlot makes a good bedfellow for such dishes. So on a subsequent visit, we made sure to bring a white wine with hints of honey and floral tones: a California viognier tightly cuddled with ice packs in an insulated bottle sheath to keep it from cooking. Once it was uncorked, we dove into the chao phraya salmon, another in the chef-suggestion roster. The thick salmon fillet, drenched in lemon, lounged in a puddle of red curry. The bright peach meat was spongy, yet deliciously savory and complex. But a side bowl of egg noodles was tough.
Like the honey-glazed chicken, the Panang catfish fillet skirted clear of expectations. Instead of a head-on, deboned fish sheath, or a long fillet gently tapered at both ends, the dish is assembled with fish chunks barely crusted. Bell peppers are used to crowd mushrooms and onion. The Panang curry sauce wasn't the smoothest or silkiest we've washed over our tongue, but it worked.
Tofu soup didn't. Blocks of tofu the size of midget automobiles bob in a broth "with a touch of garlic and ginger" that was mostly just tepid. Clear away a few of those blocks and you'll discover a couple of glass noodles. These seem more incidental than intentional. There was chicken in there, too, which was odd for a dish based so heavily on the ubiquitous substitute for animal parts.
820 S. Macarthur Blvd.
Coppell, TX 75019-4216
It's enough to drive you to drink. Then again, that's a tough drive to make in Coppell.
820 S. McArthur Blvd., Suite 108, Coppell, 972-462-1584. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; open for dinner 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 12 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday. $-$$