Bellies of the Beast

The last time food costs were a big issue in TDCJ was in the mid-'90s, when TDCJ's former head, Andy Collins, ordered twice-a-day servings of VitaPro, soy-based "meat extender" pellets. The unhealthy quantities caused rashes and intestinal problems for tens of thousands of Texas prisoners.

Luna says the meals served to officers had the correct balance, about 10 percent, of the meat substitute. But she says the inmates got meals where VitaPro was 50 percent of the supposed meat serving. "It didn't look like a hamburger. It wouldn't stay together. In casseroles, it would make it real watery."

The product "made them very gassy," says Luna. "I would walk on a run and it would just smell so horrendous. It would be like a brick wall, like walking into a Porta-Potty in 100-degree weather, except that would smell better."

Prison budgets and nutrition, as it turned out, weren't the underlying factors for the interest in VitaPro. Collins was convicted in Houston federal court in 2001 for accepting bribes in return for VitaPro contracts valued at $33 million. He remains free on bond, awaiting sentencing.

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Few would deny that Texas correctional officers are underpaid and overstressed, but there are unique benefits. Guards still get free haircuts, shoe shines and discount dry cleaning, all courtesy of inmate labor.

Olsen, the guards' association leader, is most concerned about cuts in employee health benefits and the move toward privatizing the prison system. But he argues that the agency would be better served by providing employees with good meals.

The once-vibrant officer dining rooms formed a valuable intelligence function, Olsen says. "It used to be you could eat, relax and gather information." He also points out that in emergency situations officers often have to work double shifts without notice. He says correctional officers are "disgusted" with the meal changes, "but they see the big picture--they don't blame the agency. TDCJ is scrambling to survive."

Governor Rick Perry is the real culprit, Olsen says. He believes the cuts are designed to make TDCJ cost-competitive with private prisons, which Perry favors. A common conspiracy theory among correctional officers is that the more problems encountered by TDCJ, the easier it will be to set up the agency for a private takeover. Many prisoners, their families and even some guards fear that riots over food are just around the corner.

Reports from dozens of prisoners indicate that many TDCJ kitchen captains are simply ignoring the new rule about meal equality. Several letters received by TIFA members report that the ice cream is still flowing in the officers' dining room at the Ellis Unit near Huntsville. They say that, for example, officers receive regular fried chicken while inmates are served "canned chicken, balled-up and fried."

In response to TIFA's complaints, one member says Thomas told her she inspected the Ellis Unit kitchen and was "appalled." She says Thomas told her that the kitchen captain "did not understand the meaning of the word same."

Inmates report that after the spot inspection, the food improved somewhat, but that lasted only a few days.

Thomas acknowledges that it's impossible to ensure daily compliance at each of the more than 100 state prisons. "It's no different than when the law says 55, and you drive 65 until you get a ticket," she says.

TIFA members believe Thomas has good intentions but faces an enforcement nightmare. Joan Covici, a TIFA member and president of the Dallas chapter of the American Civil Liberties Union, asks, "How is she going to get these rogue wardens and kitchen captains to comply?"

Thomas encouraged TIFA to continue forwarding the complaints to her. "I told them I had no problem with them being my eyes and ears," she says.

But one question Thomas couldn't answer for Covici is why a prison system strapped with budget problems is still giving away food. Last year, TDCJ provided food banks with more than 250,000 pounds of food farmed by Texas prisoners. Brenda Kirk, executive director of the Houston Food Bank, says TDCJ officials have told her to expect a similar amount this year. She says the food bank pays "a couple of cents per pound" to cover the cost of seed and fertilizer for such items as cabbage, watermelons, onions and potatoes. Luna finds the giveaways appalling and believes that, since TDCJ owns hundreds of thousands of acres of fertile farmland, "there is no reason that offenders should go hungry."