Tasty

It's a mixed-up world, but not at Lola

Perhaps Lola owner Van Roberts operates on a different plane, maybe the kind derived from a salad where the porcinis are subbed with magic buttons. Whatever you make of his latest culinary plunge, The Tasting Room, his balance-sheet projections seem to emanate from a different dimension than those generated by the rest of Dallas' nibble barons. While the bulk of those operating in the upper sliver of the city's dining culture are tweaking menus, cutting prices and gradually wringing the "cult" from their wine lists, Roberts is kicking a conga line further up the scale. A few months ago, Roberts converted a driveway alongside his 3-plus-year-old restaurant into a tasting room complete with a dedicated kitchen and a chef, David Uygur. It's a Dallas version of the precious "dish" prepared with nanotechnology and eaten with tweezers and jeweler's loupes à la the French Laundry in Napa and Charlie Trotter's in Chicago. It's the kind of food that on a per-pound basis is more expensive than Defense Department toilet seats. What a fool.

Except it's been a petite smash (just try getting in on a Friday or Saturday night). "It's had a little bit of a halo effect in terms of bringing in new customers," Roberts says. "It's got a little bit of a buzz going on."

There's no buzz in The Tasting Room, though. Unlike the regular Lola dining room with its hard floors and windows that contribute to a conversation-harassing din, the tasting room has thick carpeting and opulently upholstered chairs. You can hear a peppercorn roll off your fork tines.

Except for a few kinks, The Tasting Room at Lola offers a respite from a mixed-up, muddled-up, shook-up culinary world.
Peter Calvin
Except for a few kinks, The Tasting Room at Lola offers a respite from a mixed-up, muddled-up, shook-up culinary world.

Location Info

Map

Lola the Restaurant

2917 Fairmount St.
Dallas, TX 75201-1455

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Details

10-course tasting menu $55
15-course tasting menu $75
Suggested wine pairings $25
2917 Fairmount St. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$$$
Closed Location

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The ochre room is also bedecked with artwork, mostly women (seminude) and mostly from Roberts' hand. Roberts not only operates a lucrative auto dealership (Point West Volvo) and a successful restaurant, he's also a skilled artist.

Go ahead. Hate him.

But there is a bit of schadenfreude in there for us: Roberts works like a schnauzer. He toils six days a week, five of them in excess of 15 hours each, keeping his fingers on both the restaurant and car dealership joysticks. This doesn't leave him much time to paint, which, judging by the work on the tasting room walls, is not a good thing.

What is a good thing is the food, especially when each dish is taken out of the context of the tasting chain. These dining vignettes (technically known as "petite courses") come in installments of 10 or 15. Courses are grouped into clusters of two or three and are headed off by a wine suggestion.

The visual aesthetics are as compelling as the tastes. A single cold poached Wellfleet oyster on the half shell with droopy cucumber slivers is embedded in a puff of wet salt studded with red and black peppercorns. Once past the lips, the oyster somehow liquefies and dissipates in the mouth, leaving behind a gentle vapor trail of brisk vinegar.

Few greater works of culinary penmanship exist apart from the loup de mer (Mediterranean sea bass) escabeche and panissa. Panissa is peasant food, a blurb of polenta-like fiber made of chickpeas and sizzled in oil. It's an oblong disc of gold on one end of the tiny plate, like a teardrop framed with baseboard. It's a fitting contrast to the strip of fish subjected to the blistering Spanish "pickling" treatment known as escabeche: a spicy marinade of vinegar, onions, peppers and spices. The fish bit with brine and brushes of acridity. But intermittent applications of panissa buffered the power, keeping those bud synapses from going numb.

Like many of the room's little phrasings, the octopus carpaccio arrived on a square plate: little discs of thinly sliced poached octopus tiled with precision in rows and columns. An adhesive of olive oil and lemon gripped them to the plate while a buzz cut of chopped mint and parsley gave them herbal breath.

This trio was paired with a serviceable but ultimately unmoving Roerderer Estate sparkling wine. The next batch was hooked to a compelling Terlano Classico, an Italian rag quilt of sauvignon blanc, pinot bianco and Riesling that washed with raciness, gentle aromas and clean melon fruit.

It worked with fungi that assumed the texture of cream in a salad of raw and cooked matsutake and porcini mushrooms, though the thick and chewy matsutake slice draped over the mush was firm and chewy, injecting contrast.

Pink snapper hobnobbed with shellfish: a pair of tiny littleneck clams in a dribble of soubise (béchamel with pureed cooked onions and a dab of cream) juxtaposed to a petite snapper strip crowned with mirapoix. Briny fish flakes poked at shellfish sweetness with downplayed richness.

Yet at this point cautionary flags must be scurried up the pole. While the previous entrants were sublime, the dishes that followed were sublimity dressed in alarming plus-sizes. Richness and weight grow and veer off the rails--so much so that while little pleasant stimulants teased the tongue, the power harangued the gullet.

Lola's tasting room is similar to a Charlie Trotter's orgy: a brutal, pleasurable torture delivered in thousands of precise, petite teases. But while the Trotter's menu is weight-conscious, this one suffers from unbearable bloat delivered in increments. Delicious gratin of cardoons (a celery-artichoke crossing) and fennel is moderately rich and is followed by a well-placed respite of lobster-mushroom pasta envelopes in feather-light mushroom consommé.

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