Tasty

It's a mixed-up world, but not at Lola

But poundings come after the soup sweat is licked (and you will lick it) from the bowl's bottom. Date-stuffed quail with prosciutto and lacinato kale is exquisite: two upended rolls of quail breast with dates in the centers, like a pair of pupils staring into your nostrils. The meat is juicy and rich, with a quail stock reduction that flirts shamelessly with caramel. But the real lucre arrives as a rectangular block of seared terrine of pork shank with aligot--a sauce formulated with mashed potatoes and cheese. This is a pork fat, starch and dairy body blow, even if it is no bigger than a cell phone.

You need Kevlar gullet lining to keep up. Because what follows is a silky but elegantly rich roasted saddle of lamb--two chops with a green tomato gratin. Then to ensure you're shuffled to the valet on a conveyor belt, lamb is followed by an exquisite seared lobe of foie gras with grapes dueling in micro-plate corners with a foie gras mousse straddling a sauterne gelatin.

Yeah, there is a fig and mint sorbet breather. But all it does is snap you into consciousness so that you're in reasonable shape to face more tortures, which in this case is dessert: three American farmstead cheeses with pears; cognac-soaked brioche; and a rich but deft chocolate genoise with mousse and bananas. It's paired with an Australian Tokay muscadelle, but I couldn't go near the stuff, lest I pop like a Fat Bastard vulgarity.

Except for a few kinks, The Tasting Room at Lola offers a respite from a mixed-up, muddled-up, shook-up culinary world.
Peter Calvin
Except for a few kinks, The Tasting Room at Lola offers a respite from a mixed-up, muddled-up, shook-up culinary world.

Location Info

Map

Lola the Restaurant

2917 Fairmount St.
Dallas, TX 75201-1455

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Details

10-course tasting menu $55
15-course tasting menu $75
Suggested wine pairings $25
2917 Fairmount St. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$$$
Closed Location

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If you look at this tasting menu as isolated musical phrases, each dish is executed almost flawlessly. But a fixed tasting menu is not a normal feeding with individual plucks from a slate of appetizers and entrées. It is an orchestration, one in which each phrase in the continuous string must be composed with acute awareness of what precedes and what follows. Perhaps that's why the Trotter's menu is restrained with its terrestrial flesh and relatively promiscuous with its flora. Tasting room chef David Uygur has shown himself to be a brilliant composer of vignettes. Perhaps more consciousness to context will catapult what is already among the finest dining experiences in Dallas to the pinnacle.

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