The Real Thing

Fake it at Sushi@Manhattan's

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Nov 20 2003

...continued from page 1

The sushi bar, packed in the back end of the nightclub, is simple and unassuming. Behind the bar, there's a black-and-white mural featuring New York Yankees greats--Lou Gehrig, Babe Ruth, Joe DiMaggio--swinging with DiMaggio's ex-wife Marilyn Monroe. Frank Sinatra is smirking off on the right flank.

The surface of the sushi bar is blond wood, heavily lacquered to a high gloss. But the ceiling tiles are heavily stained in that tea-brown hue that suggests neglected water leaks. Sometimes these blemishes can be endearing and evoke nostalgia for smoky Dallas beer hubs. But it's more serious in a sushi restaurant, where freshness and cleanliness can mean the difference between sensual pleasure and panicked convulsions.

Karlisch

Sinatra plus sake plus Arlington equals Manhattan? Go figure.

Location Info

Map

Sushi @ Manhattan's

2501 E. Lamar Blvd.
Arlington, TX 76006

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Arlington

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Details

Sushi $4 to $11
Conch salad $7.50
Shrimp tempura udon $7.50
Soft-shell crab $7.50
Chicken teriyaki bento box $10.50

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But Manhattan's has more than just raw fish. It has a slate of bento boxes, bulging with seafood and teriyakis of virtually every marquee protein save tofu T-bones. Chicken teriyaki had compartments for juicy grilled chicken, savory egg omelette squares, a serviceable California roll and a veggie medley of broccoli, onion and mushrooms.

Tempura udon, with a single soggy tempura shrimp, slightly overcooked noodles, mushroom and a raw egg spreading a gooey pool across a piping-hot broth, had surprisingly rich, engaging flavors.

Appetizers were hit-and-miss. Soft-shell crab, slices of fried crab over slivers of slightly wilted lettuce, was rocked with an odd petrol taste. But conch salad was a span of brilliance. Pieces of firm conch were crowded with segments of asparagus stalk, daikon radish sprouts and Japanese beets in a sharp vinaigrette.

With a few tweaks, Sushi@Manhattan's could be a swell market to score raw fish--among other things. Just be wary of any blue elephants that might stampede across the dance floor.

2501 E. Lamar Blvd., Suite B, Arlington, 817-652-1435. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Friday & Saturday. $$-$$$