Pair o' Dice

If this restaurant is really heavenly, then let's go commit some sin

Surf and turf has this billing: a 4-ounce lobster tail and a 6-ounce filet mignon. But our server explained there were no more lobster tails in the freezer, so he asked if it was OK to sub shrimp. A quick glance at our check reveals there was no adjustment in the price. Frances, Ivan and Jeanne must have wreaked havoc on shrimp prices. Invest heavily in Bubba Gump.

Unlike the shrimp in the Cabelini Special, these are not awfully dry; they are awfully moist--mush, in fact. The desiccated part was reserved for the fillet, which was stringy and dry but otherwise serviceable. Side vegetables were cooked into a kind of pudding, so it was hard to determine the contents, but I'd put money on zucchini.

As in other matters of Paradise, things actually look up once you zero in on basics. (How complicated are 72 virgins, after all?) Spaghetti and meatballs is fine, with massive balls that are juicy and free of a swamping filler blizzard, pasta that is firm and separate and a sauce that is reasonably free of annoying flaws, such as a preponderance of sweetness and runny streams (it sticks to the strands fairly well, which invites all sorts of unfortunate speculation in the context of the rest of the menu).

Where are the crabs? In heaven, the answer is a crap shoot.
Tom Jenkins
Where are the crabs? In heaven, the answer is a crap shoot.

Location Info

Map

Paradise Restaurant

408 Westchase Dr
Grand Prairie, TX 75052

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Grand Prairie

Details

Greek salad $5.25
Crab cakes $5.95
Fried shrimp $5.95
Cabelini Special $10.99
Spaghetti $3.99
Surf and turf $15.99
Fried catfish $8.99
Chicken breast piccata $7.99
Closed Location

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Resting on a bed of pasta, chicken breast piccata is a thick, juicy piece of chicken drenched in a well-balanced lemon-butter sauce generously pebbled with capers.

Yet if this is Paradise, it's easy to see why so many roll the dice on dens of iniquity here and there, every now and again. Good thing those long hours are happy. 408 Westchase Drive, Grand Prairie, 972-263-7707. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$

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