Daddy, Help!

Big Daddy's Grill House is good, but bring a defibrillator



TO: Stent Industry Shareholders and Venture Capitalists

If you eat the Big Daddy burger and live, they promise to wheel you out to your car.
Tom Jenkins
If you eat the Big Daddy burger and live, they promise to wheel you out to your car.

Location Info


Big Daddy's Grill House

2020 N. Central Expressway
McKinney, TX 75070

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Allen/ McKinney


Fried pickles $5.95
Big Daddy's house salad $5.25
Onion rings $4.50
Chicken gumbo $3.95
Jalapeño steak $13.95
Barbecue ribs $10.95
Big Daddy burger $10.95

FROM: Stent Manufacturers Association of America President Arturo E. Bloc

RE: Meat

First let me congratulate you on our bold investments. Your significant funding has driven one of the most innovative medical devices ever devised: the stent, that expensive (yeah!) wire mesh tube used to prop open clogged arteries once they've been cleared of cholesterol-induced blockage. Focus. You've got it. Vision. It's yours. Look at the past couple of years we've had. Our (beef/pork) gravy train is haulin' cellulite ass down the rails. Atkins is America's new G spot. Steak is its new non-battery-operated marital aid (pre and post, too). I have in front of me an article from The Wall Street Journal. Headline: Latest Diet Fad Helps Put Hog Farmers in Fat City. Bottom line: Pork consumption is up; pork prices surged 31 percent over last year.

We're in the zone, people! Even non-food-related current events are swinging our way. Now far be it from us to make light or profit from another's personal tribulations, but do I need to remind you that this past Labor Day ex-President Clinton underwent quadruple bypass surgery? A week later, CNN reported that the country was swept by "Clinton Syndrome": spooked middle-aged men flooding doctor's offices and emergency rooms to get their tickers checked. How big was the resultant surge in stent sales? Our economic research department is still crunching the numbers.

But there is a dark side.

Fortitude. We need it now more than ever. Forces are conspiring to derail our progress. The Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine launched a heinous ad campaign earlier this year linking meat consumption with impotence. Just last month radio personality Howard Stern featured a trio of stunning women from a group called Vegan Vixens on his radio show. They go by names like Tanjareen and Sky. Sky claims to have had a one-night stand with John Stamos and admitted she once dated Charlie Sheen in a Trojan horse maneuver to get his brother Emilio Estevez. Saucy campaigns like this could devastate future sales by converting the core demographic of 18- to 35-year-old male meat-eaters to a diet of Tanjareens and tofu during the critical cholesterol-building years.

To counter these threats, we've developed a sophisticated three-pronged strategy. First, we've socked away funds to cherry-pick the assets of bankrupt Interstate Bakeries, makers of Wonder Bread and Hostess and Dolly Madison pastries. We plan to re-enter the market with breads, buns and Twinkies made exclusively from Atkins-friendly fried pork rinds. Second, in conjunction with U.S. beef and pork producers, we've signed on Gene Simmons of the rock band KISS, who claims to have bedded down more than 3,000 women, as national spokesman. Our campaign, "Meat, it's what's stretchin' my spandex," will launch during Super Bowl XXXIX this February.

Third is a little place in McKinney, Texas, called Big Daddy's Grill House.

Big Daddy's offers a compelling array of deep-fried and meat-centered meals. Sure, they offer dishes that could be considered "healthy." Chicken gumbo is delicious, with bright green scallion slices slipping in and out of celery hooks. But every now and again, flickers of deep red peek through the greenish pottage. Is it heart-healthy red cabbage? Shame on you. It's the casing from slices of smoky sausage strewn throughout. Chicken breast pieces come in ample supply but are a little dry.

There's a well-tailored house salad, an elegant piece of green fluff. Blemish-less greens are pummeled with toasted pecan fragments and blue cheese crumbles before they're splashed with a sweet balsamic vinaigrette. But these are all delivered with a wink; a Sky-Emilio Trojan horse, if you will.

Granted, fried foods don't have the stent-friendly kick they once did when they were fried in blocks of melted lard (damn health nuts). But they still prime the appetite for a heavy dose of ribs, steaks and burgers.

Fried pickles are little blond coins with a flat-tasting coating. Yet maybe that doesn't matter. When you bite into the rippled hamburger dill, it floods your mouth with vinegary brine: instant seasoning as you bite. Not enough? Dip them into some spicy chipotle ranch--a dairy product, people! Your fingertips shine after just a few bites. Clean the basket down to the paper liner and a reflective shimmer of oil peers back at you.

Same with the onion rings. They're not those obnoxious thick loops that look like chokers on the other end of a dominatrix leash. They're thin and delicate, with the same blond coating.

Drama builds as you navigate the entrée menu. "Famous jalapeño steak" is a thin skirt-steak sprawl; a ruddy piece of meat pre-soaked in a jalapeño marinade. It's a little tough, but the jalapeño juice rounds the flavors with a tangy sting--a raffish way to round flavors, I admit, but it works. Plus, it's meat. The surface is scattered with grilled shrimp: crispy, moist, plump, with cholesterol out the vent. There is also a choice of sides. We experimented with rice pilaf: grains that were overcooked, sticky and pebbled with corn kernels. But who cares? Rice and corn are Atkins blasphemy. Tomato slices were mealy and tasteless--which proves all red foods should come from a steer or a hog flank.

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