Disney Chicken

Grand Lux Cafe is tasteful like Vegas

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Dec 16 2004

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Grand Lux looks odd in its Tollway-gazing Galleria notch; like a neo-Roman castle planted in an industrial park. There are lots of loud yellows, gas lanterns, heavy metal and a klatch of angels mounted on the building's face. It's the Bass Performance Hall as interpreted by Donald Trump bonging to a Looney Tunes marathon.

Of course, there is adult supervision. The oversized banquettes, art-deco sconces fitted with cobalt blue balls rising intermittently from the backs, are comfortable, and the marble tabletops are handsome. Marble planks the floors, and gold flakes the ceilings. The room glows with amber, and the room's pillars are armored with dark metallic planks pebbled with studs. Staffers, dressed in black, sweep through the dining room murmuring into walkie-talkies, seemingly hunting for open tables before they radio in hostess strikes. Grand Lux has a command console near the massive front doors, with an expansive view of the bar as well as the bakery case where you can load up on cheesecakes and pies while digesting your chicken. There the console commander monitors computer screens with interactive maps of the dining room.

Tom Jenkins

C'mon, seven, baby needs a new pair of shoes. Grand Lux brings the charm of Vegas to the Galleria.

Location Info

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Grand Lux Cafe

13420 N. Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75240

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Dallas

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Details

Ahi sampans $10.95 Thai spring rolls $7.95 Mahi mahi Mediterranean $18.95 Cajun rib eye $26.95
Tuscan eggs $9.95
Eggs Benedict $10.95
Rustic apple pie $6.95

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Say what you will about Grand Lux, it is a marvelous casino-like monument to efficiency, one that will no doubt rake in gobs of creamy profits, just like its Cheesecake Factory stud. This is why they serve breakfast, no doubt.

Eggs Benedict are billed as "The Best." Maybe it's because they contain not Canadian bacon, but ham. And they're artfully done: thick, fluffy English muffins with expansive but very thin slices of fray-edged pig flesh, folded to prevent too much overhang. The eggs are poached into near-alarming softness, and the hollandaise is warm (not hot), lacking a firm lemony bite--good, but not the best by some margin. Better were the fluffy Tuscan farmhouse eggs, pummeled with grape tomatoes, basil and shaved Parmesan. This lightly hearty dish looks insurmountable, and it is if you include the optional hash browns (the other choice, tomatoes, was mealy).

Desserts are exceptional. The rustic apple pie has a flaky crust with puffy golden edges and apples that are firm, tart and not overly gooed with brown sugar. Another great thing about Grand Lux desserts: Not a single one contains chicken.

13420 Dallas North Parkway, 972-385-3114. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Friday & Saturday. $$-$$$