Portrait of the Art Cafe

Kathleen's Plano location is no work of art

This breakfast hell is a supple burrito, stuffed with smoked chicken, scrambled eggs and poblano peppers topped with Mexicali sauce. Avocado and sour cream are on standby. And there are breakfast spuds. Always, there must be breakfast spuds. This hodgepodge proves delicious, with pepper heat desecrating the fluffy scramble with tasty sadism. Soothing moments intrude only when the tongue is cooled by the avocado or sour cream.

Breakfast gets weird, too: shrimp and grits. Shrimp and grits? Ham hocks and grits maybe. Pork patties and grits for sure. But shrimp? Without the benefit of saffron or pesto? Still, it's delicious. The grits are silken, at the same time they're hearty (they Krazy Glue the ribs). Plus this mound is stubbled with onion, bacon (the BLT Caesar should sue) and bell peppers, both red and green. Jumbo shrimp are spicy, yet they don't need to be. They have enough of that gritty marine sweat to pull the load on their own.

French toast is good, too: thick, rich, moist, dense instead of fluffy--more rib glue. Even the "unch" part of the brunch is good. Artichoke-stuffed ravioli is a pile of firm green pillows reeking of pulverized thistle flower. But this isn't the best part of this mess. (It really is a mess, with the ravioli loosely piled with bell peppers, mushrooms, grilled chicken and limpid strips of spinach.) What breathes life into this heap is the three-olive pesto. It's svelter than the typical pesto, where the cheese and olive oil become an unction junction pinned together with garlic pricks. The surge of brine transcends the mess, elevating the confetti heap along with it.

Maybe Kathleen's should replace some of the art on the walls with a mounted blue marlin. The fish wasn't worth space on the plate.
Tom Jenkins
Maybe Kathleen's should replace some of the art on the walls with a mounted blue marlin. The fish wasn't worth space on the plate.

Details

BLT Caesar $7
Kitchen sink gumbo $7
Hawaiian salmon $15
Blue marlin $17
Artichoke ravioli $13
Eggs from hell $11
French toast $9
Shrimp and grits $12
Four-cream apple pie $4
Closed Location

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So much for writer's block. 4021 Preston Road, Plano, 972-312-0011. Open 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday; 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. $$

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