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Mofongo's pretty good--as long as you avoid the signature dish

Sides will seem familiar: white rice, rice jaundiced a neat yellow by sofrito, an afterthought salad. And plantains, of course. Tostones are slices of pseudo-banana, cooked for a bit, smashed flat, then fried. Little flat banana fritters, with much less flavor. They also serve faintly sweetened plantain slices.

Mofongo's kitchen staff prepares everything in house, including desserts. The restaurant asks customers to pay for desserts separately unless picked up at the beginning of the meal. It's disconcerting to watch chilled custards wilt at the table while patrons meander through the other courses. Still, the flan is marvelous, with a light, comfortable sweetness and a delicate consistency that still bites back against the fork. Rice pudding was mediocre on one visit but well-executed on another. It's nothing like the milky, sticky English version sold in grocery stores. Granular, laced with cinnamon and raisins and a modicum of sugar, it soothes a palate worn thin by mofongo.

Adios the mofongo, but the roasted chicken at Mofongo is a thing of beauty.
Tom Jenkins
Adios the mofongo, but the roasted chicken at Mofongo is a thing of beauty.

Details

Mofongo con carne frita $6.95

Mofongo con pollo $4.95

Carne guisada $7.25

Empanadilla de carne $1.95

Tostones $2

Chulestas $7.25

Flan $2.95

Arroz con dulce $1.50

Closed Location

If only the staff would direct gringos away from that dish. 2113 Harwood Road, Suite 325, Bedford, 817-545-0222. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday 11:30 a.m-6 p.m. $

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