By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
And yes, there's a highlight or two at Twin Peaks. The menu announces soups created on-premises. True, the backwoods gumbo was oily and salty, but it mimicked the Cajun staple. But the jalapeño corn chowder teased the taste buds with an initial wave of sweetness followed by chile, which emerges slowly at first then picks up steam. A slightly viscous base holds everything together, providing a placid canvas for natural sugars of corn and vegetal fire of jalapeño. The heat is not overpowering. Rather, the flavor of ripe chile lingers. Good stuff, in other words.
Just don't expect much otherwise. This is a place that advertises "no fart" chili in large chalk letters. No need to be alarmed when you order a white wine and the bartender pours it over ice and bounces the delicate alcohol in a bar shaker (happened on our first visit) or when waiting for the inexperienced staff of flirtatious teenagers to clear detritus from the table. Or even when they finally arrive with a bottle of Hellmann's mayonnaise requested 10 minutes earlier and leave guests to peel off its cellophane wrapper.
Hey, at least we know it's fresh...from the restaurant supply warehouse.
Queso & chips $3.95
Jalapeño corn chowder $2.95
Backwoods gumbo $3.50
Twin cheeseburger $7.95
Chicken-fried steak sandwich $7.95
Philly cheese-steak $7.95
Tenderloin skewers $12.95
BBQ rib tee-pee $13.50
Frito chili pie $4.95
Kentucky bourbon pecan pie $4.95
Essentially, Twin Peaks brings diner-quality fare to the Dallas area. Maybe that's a tad harsh, assessment-wise. After all, some of those rural diner jockeys are pretty damn talented. The new Lewisville site, on the other hand, prepares entirely familiar and often forgettable dishes. Fries? Somewhat crisp and salted lightly or heavily, depending on when you drop by. The experience disappears from your mind shortly after handing over the credit card. Burgers? The twin cheeseburger features two thin patties surrounding industrial cheese. Taken as a whole, it's a sandwich equal to anything plated for undiscriminating Denny's patrons.
Besides, who really notices the food? Twin Peaks is all about breasts, bikini lines and that strange fantasy unsightly men seem to cherish of amorous encounters with tiny, possibly legal-aged women. 2601 S. Stemmons Freeway, Lewisville, 214-488-7222. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Bar open until Midnight.