Go Fish Go

Points for creativity, but simplicity is good seafood at Go Fish

But this does not mean Go Fish doesn't work. It does, especially when you focus on the relevant stuff. The pound of steamed jumbo Alaskan king crab legs with drawn butter and lobster mashed potatoes was stunning. The shells were brittle and easy to crack; the meat inside was sweet, succulent and firm. Drawn butter was rancid-free.

And Go Fish doesn't leave all of the creativity to Neptune, as prolific and ingenious as he is. There is some remarkable kitchen work outside of fine fish husbandry.

Who'da thunk to make a soup out of avocado (the other green meat after lobster tomalley)? It's cold and thick, like pudding--refreshingly rich for summer, as only avocado can provide. It's clean, except for the frosty white clumps of lump crab imbedded in the center--Neptune's Cool Whip.

The seafood is best at Go Fish when it's fussed with less.
Tom Jenkins
The seafood is best at Go Fish when it's fussed with less.

Location Info

Map

Go Fish Ocean Club

5301 Alpha Road
Dallas, TX 75240

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: North Dallas

Details

Ceviche $9

Avocado soup $7

Fried green tomato salad $8

Sushi duo $13

Swordfish steak Niçoise $26

Grilled halibut $18

Surf 'n' turf $46

Rack of lamb $29

King crab legs $27

Key lime pie $8

Fried green tomato salad is slices crusted with panko bread crumbs and corn meal before frying. The slices nap near a bed of baby arugula. Goat cheese is in there, too, as is house ranch and house smoked peach jam. Though the crust is a bit chalky, the slices are clean, juicy and tart.

Here's an oddity: fried quail eggs resting on a piece of swordfish. They look like a pair of shriveled, glassy fish eyes, the kind you see mournfully staring at you from the head of a fried snapper. Only these two shriveled yellow yolk spots are next to each other, glaring you at you flounder-like. Those eggs rest on a smear of tomato concasse (a coarsely pulverized sauce) applied to the swordfish steak, which in turn rests on a salad of chicory frisée, haricot verts, potatoes, capers and anchovies. It's called swordfish steak Niçoise, so those shriveled quail eggs are an ingenious substitution for the chilly hard-boiled kind. It's very good, too.

Svalesen really shines brightest when he leaves his fish the hell alone. "Fresh & light from the grill" is a range of victims that includes swordfish, king salmon, Chilean sea bass, ahi tuna and jumbo sea scallops. We chose Alaskan halibut dressed in nothing but salt, pepper and fishnets from charring on a grill. It leaves you with nothing but halibut. You know it works because you don't find yourself yearning for sauces, crusts or compotes. The fish is wreathed in exquisitely grilled vegetables, mostly in the squash/tuber realm.

Dessert works wonders, too. The Key lime pie is brittle on the bottom, firm and creamy on the top and tart as hell, just what you need after swallowing fish. So Go Fish. Literally. 4950 Belt Line Road, Addison, 972-980-1919. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Monday-Friday; open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5:30 p.m.-midnight Friday & Saturday. $$$

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