Keeps Going

Familiar, comfortable food soldiers on at The Bronx

The principal works for the environs. The Bronx is a cozy collage of used brick, rattled lumber paneling, scuffed booth benches, weathered hardwood floors and often compelling pieces of art that can be had for a price. During the day, windows off the patio facing the Cedar Springs asphalt flood the room with sunlight, but the hard surfaces amp up the noise levels too. Saturday night in the bar is, well, like Saturday night in a bar.

The din doesn't diminish the rainbow trout fillet encased in buttered citrus-bacon breadcrumbs and served with new potatoes au gratin, which are essentially cut potatoes with melted mozzarella on top (good though). It has its own noise to contend with. The trout is moist and delicate, but, gad, it's hard to tease this out as the crunchy coating trounces the flavor into a cowering corner. It also makes the fish look like a badly barnacled surfboard. Again, is less more?

The most surprising menu option is the grilled New York strip with roasted garlic herbed butter. Or is it roasted garlic herbed butter with a side of steak? The butter dab is the size of a hockey puck. The steak doesn't contain enough BTUs to substantially melt it, so this chilly oversized disk glares up from the weathered beef like a cyclopean eye patch. Not that this dab doesn't have a lot to hide. The meat is dull, mealy, knotted with gristle and gray instead of medium rare. Butter doesn't help with the downslide.

Comfort is key at The Bronx--and the food isn't bad either.
Tom Jenkins
Comfort is key at The Bronx--and the food isn't bad either.

Location Info

Map

The Bronx Cafe

3835 Cedar Springs Road
Dallas, TX 75219

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Details

Three onion soup $7.95

Wilted spinach $7.95

Fried calamari $7.95

Chicken sauté $12.50

Rainbow trout $17.50

New York strip $23

Cannelloni $14.75

Peach cobbler $5

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But peach cobbler is delicious, with lots of fruit flavor untarnished by an overwhelming supply of cake or crust.

The Bronx has been around for nearly three decades, which in restaurant years is the rough equivalent of an eon. Its mostly competent, straightforward protocol means it will probably be around for many more decades or at least as long as that wicked witch teases twisters from a broom. 3835 Cedar Springs Road, 214-521-5821. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; open for brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$.

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