Alien Eats

Shrimp pizza is good, too, with a thin crust, crisp and slightly pillowy and topped with citrus-marinated shrimp flavored with orange honey. There's even a hangover brunch pizza with that same fire-branded crust holding a sprawl of roasted tomato-peach salsa, scrambled eggs, sausage and bacon welded together with threads of Swiss and cheddar cheeses.

Pairing wine with eggs has always been a stiff challenge. Yet it is a necessity in a place that positions itself as a hangover restorative. Sparkling wine works, yet we settled on a crisp yet rich (figgish) Van Duzer Pinot Gris from Oregon's Willamette Valley. Our server explains Van Duzer doesn't pick the grapes based on brix (sugar) levels; they pick on gut. Then he offers to decant the wine. On a previous visit, our Bouchaine Pinot Noir was decanted after the bottle was two-thirds empty.

Tom Jenkins

Kitchen 1924 is an unabashed throwback--a place to eat.

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Kitchen 1924

1924 Abrams at Gaston
Dallas, TX 75214

Category: Restaurant >

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

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Details

Onion soup $5

Spinach salad $8

Pork bellies $9

Shrimp pizza $9

Cedar-plank salmon $16

Flat-iron steak $15

Garlic coleslaw $6

Deviled eggs $4

Breakfast pizza $8

Coconut cream pie $7

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More About

• Shawn Horne
• Lakewood
• Stephan Pyles
• Eating Out
• Food and Cooking

At brunch, servers wear T-shirts with famous quotes like "I'm huge in Germany" (Baywatch star/singer David Hasselhoff) and "Fried baby, the other other white meat" (Fat Bastard from the second Austin Powers). Yet Kitchen 1924 is decidedly PC. The menu is speckled with organic foods. Spent kitchen frying oil is recycled into biodegradable fuel, which produces just enough juice to fuel the trucks that pick up the frying oil--the world's first perpetual motion fryer system. The community table is fashioned from recycled bowling-alley planks.

There are offbeat menu entries, such as she-crab soup. She-crab soup is so named because it's dolled up with crab roe. Yet how do they know the meat comes from female crabs? "The chef assures me that they are," a server says. "But I don't lift the legs of the crabs to check."

There are stumbles too. Though delicious, the warm spinach salad splashed with mustard vinaigrette is cold. And the fried French toast is limp, soggy and slimy.

Yet most of the generic staples are nailed down. Garlic coleslaw is brisk and crisp, while the braised red cabbage in Champagne vinegar and Pinot Noir is refreshingly hearty, leaving a clean, restorative feel. Deep yellow deviled eggs are just slightly chilled--as they should be--with a creamy smooth texture and a sensuous mustard sting. Coconut cream pie is killer.

Kitchen 1924 is a neighborhood room as distinctive as its Lakewood ecosystem--a place you can comfortably visit again and again. And if you're confronted with gassy Kitchen identity philosophy, remember this: Aliens are not generic. 1924 Abrams Road at Gaston Avenue, 214-821-1924. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday. Open for Sunday brunch noon-3 p.m. $$-$$$