By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
We order wine on a second visit--splashes of Estancia pinot noir and more Primitivo and are struck by the bouquet...fish. Were these glasses cross-referenced with a mussel bowl in the dishwasher? The fishiness was stronger than the berry fume.
It was stronger than the fish in the grouper special too. Three pieces of grouper, bandaged tightly in bacon, are posted vertically on the plate like Easter Island sculptures amongst smears of citrus sauce and mashed potatoes. The fish is dry, spongy and bland, with no discernible flavors; even the bacon is dry and tasteless.
Tomato caprese is ham-fisted, completely devoid of elegance. Though juicy, the tomato slices are huge and rough-hewn, dusted with basil and covered with crudely cleaved pieces of mozzarella near a sheaf of greens.
Carpaccio is a self-contained buffet table, a massive platter tiled with blood-red doilies laced in fat. The meat is red and cool and occasionally pebbled with capers. There's a little Parmigiano-Reggiano and a little mustard aioli too. The meat isn't gossamer-thin or even tender; it's chewy and sinuous, though cool and rich. Brio beef doesn't improve much when cooked. Sliced prime rib eye steak posted on a bed of spinach and lathered in a yellowish creamy horseradish sauce is charred and crisp around the edges but tough and chewy when you course into the rosy red. Plus, it races with a bloody sharp metallic flavor instead of smooth beefy richness.
But you can finish off with a dessert tower containing ascending levels of cheesecake, crème brûlée and molten chocolate lava cake. Seems comforting that a meal of corporate cuisine in a meticulously planned Town Square should finish with a high-rise. 1431 Plaza Place in Southlake Town Square. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.