Alley Fat

This grill requires a high-cholesterol billfold

Fish is only slightly less riveting. A coarse crescent of baked halibut is posted on a plate near a ribbon of vegetables: zucchini, onion, bell pepper, mushrooms, that sort of thing. The fish is Parmesan-crusted and seasoned with paprika, scallions and citrus lime juice. This injects a forward bite into what is otherwise a mild fish.

But the Grill hooks its rep on meat, on chops such as the treacherously priced beef rib chop ($39.75). Australian lamb chops don't go that high. Five or so chops are propped vertically on the plate in a puddle of brackish mint sauce near a dab of spinach mashed potatoes. Rather than tight and silky with tightly focused meat flavors, the chops are loose and fatty with just a little bit of raciness to break through the lackluster texture of the meat.

Charbroiled rib eye was even more disappointing, especially given that the beef is 28-day-aged prime from Midwestern corn-fed cattle. A pool of red juices collects in a divot on the rib eye's surface, which is broiler-scorched into a craggy black crust. The large steak is rich but loose, sinewy and very fatty — not marble fatty, but fatty with pronounced pockets of milky-yellow globules.

Who's afraid of the big, bad cholesterol? At Grill on the Alley, no one is.
Tom Jenkins
Who's afraid of the big, bad cholesterol? At Grill on the Alley, no one is.

Location Info

Map

The Grill on the Alley

13270 Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75240

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Dallas

Details

Endive salad $7.50

Chilled gazpacho $5.50

Crab cake $13.50

Lobster martini $18.75

Prime rib $37.75

Rack of Lamb $29.75

Baked halibut $29.75

Rib eye $33.75

Grilled Shrimp pomodoro $23.75

Carrot cake $7.50

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Salads are astounding, though. Endive salad—with racy red radicchio, romaine, gorgonzola and spicy pecans splashed in an invigorating vinaigrette—is essentially a leafy aperitif. Rich, thick slices of tomato tango with Bermuda onion hoops and Maytag blue cheese in the tomato onion salad.

Sure, this is little more than a burly American grill with furred-chest brutishness tamed by cummerbund manners. The only requirement for its enjoyment is a high-cholesterol billfold.

Yet sometimes it stumbles. Instead of a silken puree, the Grill's chilled gazpacho is just a bowl of thin tomato bleed with bits of avocado, cucumber and tomato—essentially a wet salad. Then again, what self-respecting chop and prime rib shop dabbles in gazpacho?

13270 Dallas Parkway, Suite 155, 214-459-1601. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$$-$$$$

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