By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Kobe spare ribs fray into rich, lush meat fibers when forked and twisted with strands from the soba noodle bed underneath it.
For all of the faux meditative purity postures Shinsei assumes, it froths with sincere creativity. It's more world rock rumba than temple bell and a mantra. Take the surf and turf tataki, a long narrow plate with dueling rows of marine and terrestrial protein emanating from a tuft of vegetables. Tender slices of gently seared Kobe beef and darkly red tuna flecked with sesame seeds span single file from a heap in the center called Chinese broccoli salad. The salad swells with broccoli, carrot slivers and scallions with a fried onion crown. The salad is crisp and savory. The warm beef melts. But the tuna is distressingly off temperature—room temperature instead of cool or warm, making it indecisive—distressing for a fish that is near raw.
But such blemishes are almost irrelevant. Buddha once warned against frivolous talk and covetousness. But he also said that wherever in the world there are delightful and pleasurable things, there much craving may subside for a while. Shinsei has all of these things, which makes it a struggle of sorts, which is the whole point, isn't it?
7713 Inwood Road, Dallas. Open 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. $$$