Holy Buzz

Shinsei froths with sincere creativity

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Nov 16 2006

Kobe spare ribs fray into rich, lush meat fibers when forked and twisted with strands from the soba noodle bed underneath it.

For all of the faux meditative purity postures Shinsei assumes, it froths with sincere creativity. It's more world rock rumba than temple bell and a mantra. Take the surf and turf tataki, a long narrow plate with dueling rows of marine and terrestrial protein emanating from a tuft of vegetables. Tender slices of gently seared Kobe beef and darkly red tuna flecked with sesame seeds span single file from a heap in the center called Chinese broccoli salad. The salad swells with broccoli, carrot slivers and scallions with a fried onion crown. The salad is crisp and savory. The warm beef melts. But the tuna is distressingly off temperature—room temperature instead of cool or warm, making it indecisive—distressing for a fish that is near raw.

Tom Jenkins

Elvis is everywhere: Shinsei's sushi chef Shuji Sugawara, left, and executive chef Casey Thompson.

Location Info

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Shinsei

7713 Inwood Road
Dallas, TX 75209

Category: Restaurant > Asian Fusion

Region: Park Cities

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Details

Sushi $4.75-$11

Surf and turf tataki $15

Salmon $23

Thai fried rice $8

Spring rolls $8

Black cod $29

Shrimp ramen noodles $22

Kobe spare ribs $32

Tapioca $5

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But such blemishes are almost irrelevant. Buddha once warned against frivolous talk and covetousness. But he also said that wherever in the world there are delightful and pleasurable things, there much craving may subside for a while. Shinsei has all of these things, which makes it a struggle of sorts, which is the whole point, isn't it?

7713 Inwood Road, Dallas. Open 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. $$$