Roux Note

Can this new seafood joint draw the jazz lovers?

Yet its the perfect atmosphere for asparagus; long, bright green shriveled spears marinated in garlic, lemon juice and olive oil and cooked until the spears give and don't take.

We order a lettuce wedge. We sample the crab cakes, useless things that are all gummy filler: a crab hushpuppy with the crab perfectly hushed. Creole fries are soft and mealy. Halved crab legs were once frozen but are rich and good. We sample the fillet Oscar with the requisite stuff: the crab meat, the asparagus spears, the hollandaise. Add mushroom ragout. It's all cool, as if it had been sitting for a while, somewhere. The beef is flaccid with a slight livery edge, not serious enough to elicit a wince but...

Pacing is a problem. The timing is off. Cues should be taken from the stage: clean four-four, steady on the ride cymbal, crash on the upbeats here and there. The wedge lagged. A man in a crisp pinstripe comes to our table and offers his condolences. Bacon must be crisped. Did we still want it? We did. All of it: the dressing, the tomatoes, the blue cheese crumbles, the bacon bits from freshly crisped strips.

Fourteen bucks for red beans and sausage? We don't want to know how much the lobster costs.
Tom Jenkins
Fourteen bucks for red beans and sausage? We don't want to know how much the lobster costs.

Location Info

Map

Greenville Avenue Seafood & Jazz

2104 Greenville Ave.
Dallas, TX 75206

Category: Restaurant >

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

Asparagus $8

Alligator cheesecake $10

Crab cakes $12

Creole fries $5

Sausage and red beans $14

Boudin sausage wontons $9

Shrimp $10

Crab legs $28.95

Crawfish bisque $9

Fillet Oscar $35

Crawfish étouffée $15

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More About

We had this for dessert. It was warm. As they say in the trade: "Crazy Rhythm." Dig? 2104 Greenville Ave., 214-826-6376. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$.

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