Slick Porch

New Tristan Simon venture has good food, little personality

The Porch squeezes all of its juices fresh: lime, lemon, orange, pineapple and berries. You'll find them in cocktails such as the blackberry smash. You'll find them in the lemonade.

The lemonade is tepid. All of the searing citrus has been teased out with sugar. Maybe this is why we found a fly floating amongst the cubes. Thus, we stumble onto one of the hazards of dining on The Porch patio, a canopied spread that overlooks the Harleys and fire engines and diesel fumes of Henderson Avenue. Hanging from the metal poles supporting the canopy are conical plastic bags filled with water. Resting in the bag cone is a shiny penny. The pennies confuse the flies, our server tells us, wreaking havoc upon their compound eyes. They fly off. In theory.

In squadrons, they lighted on our dry, wonderfully chewy smoked baby rib slab, lacquered in house-made barbecue sauce. They dive-bombed our obese peel 'n' eat shrimp boiled in a heady brew of Old Bay, salt, red wine vinegar, lots of bay leaf, pepper and Tabasco. They must have liked how roiled with flavor these shrimp are. We did. Speckled in herbs and ruddied in Tabasco tint, the shrimp are accompanied by two damp tightly rolled dish towels—screw the towelettes—to assuage unsightly dribbles and smears.

The Porch could use some rougher edges to kick up its tavern vibe—just not on the menu.
Tom Jenkins
The Porch could use some rougher edges to kick up its tavern vibe—just not on the menu.

Location Info

Map

The Porch

2912 N. Henderson Ave.
Dallas, TX 75206-6403

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

Peel 'n' eat shrimp $12

Red pepper hummus $8

Steamed mussels $12

Fried chicken Cobb $14

Stodg burger $14

Mustard crusted salmon $17

Fish and chips $15

Baby back ribs $19

Peach cobbler $7

The best thing about the lightly crisp and clean pilsner tempura'd fish and chips is that they come with a huge ramekin of tangy-sweet dill tartar sauce so you don't have to keep ordering a succession of tartar dabs in bottle-caps. There's the deliciously moist and rich mustard-crusted fillet of salmon, but aside from that, Porch fare is decidedly unserious. The buttermilk fried chicken Cobb salad is heaps of chopped tomato, piles of cut avocado and mounds of crispy Nueske's bacon, plus blue cheese crumbles in bulk. It's all oomph and little ah, what with the chicken being dry and spongy.

Yet the pie-crust-topped peach cobbler that bleeds as red as rhubarb and puckers the lips with the tartness of cherries has all of the complex sweet runny notes of fresh peaches. More damp towels please. Big ones. There's paunch to protect. 2912 N. Henderson Ave., 214-828-2916. Open 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday and 5 p.m.-midnight Thursday-Saturday. $$-$$$.

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