Grecian Yearn
The truth is, Kavala is mostly a beauty
This is precisely the flavor profile we wanted to accompany the pan-roasted duck breast with creamy polenta in a spill of pomegranate-walnut sauce plus a side of warm salad with tomatoes and pecans—strange for a summer evening with a pizza-kiln heat boost. But the flesh, rosy and gray with perfectly crisped skin, is tender and lush, heavily flecked with pepper, which mows through duck fat nearly as vigorously as the Nuhar.
If he had his way, Hightower would keep his focus zeroed on jet-fresh seafood. But his clientele harbors other lusts. "Meat and potatoes, man, that's what people around here really love," he says. Hence the lamb chops with potato leek puree. The rib eye with pan-roasted marble potatoes. The spiced leg of lamb gyro is so stuffed with lemon oregano potatoes that you have to tear the dish apart rather than bundle them up with the tomatoes, onion, feta and thick half-moon hooks of cucumber in the pillow-plush pita and watch the cool milky tzatziki sauce laced with meat juices spurt from the ends like drain pipe.
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Kavala Mediterranean Grill
1417 W. Davis St.
Dallas, TX 75208
Category: Restaurant >
Region: Oak Cliff & South Dallas
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Details
Chicken livers $7.95
Foie gras $15
Octopus carpaccio $9.95
Halibut $27.95
Duck breast $19.95
Lamb burger $7.95
Gyro $9.95
Pineapple granita $6
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The pink lamb burger—strangely juiceless considering its tincture—with feta on pita comes with house-made rosemary fries. When Hightower does get his hands on a slab of fish, he weaves wonders. Instead of pulverized encrustation, the pistachio-crusted halibut is stippled with whole nuts to keep the saffron chardonnay sauce from turning the crust into mealy mush. The fish merges with the sauce, beautifully subdued yet emphatic enough to speak through the pistachio screen.
Finish off with a gritty pineapple granita (the coarse Sicilian frozen dessert) with blueberries neatly ringing the hump of ice crystals rising above the sundae glass—the only suitable weapon to battle summer heightened with a pizza furnace breath.
1417 W. Davis St., 214-942-8100. Open 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday and 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. $$-$$$
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