Review: Luna de Noche

In excess

So, you got rice, chicken and an entire zucchini on a plate with some spicy but out-of-place tomato sauce. It's an odd dish, and here's a tip: While the chicken was tasty, the look of La Jill might be too daunting, nay, emasculating, an option on a first date.

Luna's Tex-Mex Gourmet won us back with brunch and desserts. The Luna Layer Verde was an amazing change-up on huevos rancheros, layering a corn tortilla with beans, ham, salsa verde, eggs and cheese. We also tried La Mexicana and omelet de la casa between three of us, but that layered gem took the blue ribbon. And surprisingly, brunch showed us smaller portions, some wonderful sautéed peppers and potatoes and a helluva guilty pleasure in the refried beans.

In the way of desserts, we went mid-century and had our server flambé yet again. The Flaming Alisandra delivered two sopapillas with a flaming apple (other choices are strawberry and peach) compote and what appeared to be Reddi-wip wrapped in a black cloth napkin (That's our only complaint in the dessert arena. A restaurant worth its place settings needs to make their own whipped cream.)

The size of this might be appropriate for a sampler, but entrées carry the same load.
tom jenkins
The size of this might be appropriate for a sampler, but entrées carry the same load.

Location Info

Map

Luna De Noche Victory Gourmet

2300 Victory Park Lane
Dallas, TX 75219

Category: Restaurant > Tex-Mex

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Luna De Noche

7602 Jupiter Road
Garland, TX 75044

Category: Restaurant > Tex-Mex

Region: Garland & Vicinity

Luna De Noche

7927 Forest Lane
Dallas, TX 75230

Category: Restaurant > Tex-Mex

Region: North Dallas

Details

Rudy's Request $15
Chile relleno del mar $26
Pollo Pipian $19
Portabello/beef tenderloin $33
La Jill $21
The Luna Layer Verde $12
Flaming Alisandra $6
Flan $5

The flan was also a win. The various strata were visible: the browned, firm top, the smooth custard just below still buzzing with caramel flavor, and, lower still, the more porous and gelatinous jiggle that cools the tongue. This is the one dish worth the two pounds it puts on your hips.

I want to love the new Luna location. I'll be back for basics, like two-enchilada platters and brunch, sure. I just cannot get past the overwhelming size of the dishes. It tended to be off-putting instead of enticing, and I couldn't help but think that smaller portions and prices would have diners lining up outside past the dog-friendly patio. As it is, meals come across as excessive instead of "gourmet." Where they do succeed is in perfectly cooked proteins, enthusiasm and service. My servers seemed to genuinely care that I was having a good meal, and when it comes to customer care there's no such thing as "too much."

2300 Victory Park Lane, 214-420-3050. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. $$$

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