Review: Sultan Café in Richardson

Skip the food and fire up a hookah instead

There's an old adage that gets thrown around at business dinners and happy hours and parental lectures: Do one thing and do it well. Or, as someone who helped pay my college tuition once said with frustration, "Focus. Remember, it's better to be great at one thing than to do a bunch of crap half-assed." Richardson's Sultan Café should follow that advice.

The hookah bar and Mediterranean grill that advertises halal cuisine (foods sanctioned under Islam) has got its varied tobaccos down, but when it comes to food, Sultan lacks direction, freshness and flavor.

My first visit didn't start off well. We were greeted at the door by a lack of guidance and a little pile of debris on the floor, destined forthe dustpan. Left to gaze aimlessly around the spacious venue for a few moments, we discussed the oddity of smoking hookahs in such a brightly lit space—as one party was doing while concentrating on a foreign television show. Someone finally emerged from the back of the restaurant to instruct us to sit wherever we'd like.

Smoking may be hazardous to your health, but at Sultan, it's kinder to your tongue.
Tom Jenkins
Smoking may be hazardous to your health, but at Sultan, it's kinder to your tongue.

Location Info

Map

Sultan Café

201 S. Greenville Ave.
Richardson, TX 75081

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Richardson & Vicinity

Details

Lentil soup $4.95

Falafel appetizer $3.49

Hummus $4.95

Chicken Slovakia $7.95

Gyro sandwich $5.95

Chicken shawarma sandwich $13.95

Mix grill combo $13.95

Gyro plate $13.95

The lengthy menu took awhile to navigate, but it looked promising and I, being a Mediterranean cuisine enthusiast, was excited. We finally decided to start with a falafel appetizer (also available in a sandwich with the peculiar name of Bye-bye Mother in Law) and stuffed grape leaves. We ordered (by number) and waited for approximately 20 minutes before our server returned to take our entrée orders. No sign of the starters.

I opted for the lentil soup and the gyro platter. The soup came fairly quickly but was a disappointment. The bumpy puree of pale ochre hue was incredibly bland. A lack of seasoning proved a great disservice to such a sturdy soup base. I expected something hearty and autumnal, warm and nourishing. This variation was boring at best but would serve later as a go-to bite to ward off other unwanted flavors. Astonishingly, I ended up glad I had a bland soup by my side.

The gyro platter came piled high with meat, grilled veggies, a roasted potato and french fries straight from the bag. The veggies were inoffensive enough, but the gyro slices were so overdone and dried out they were nearly crispy on the edges—and not in the way a quick sear would provide. The fries were dusted heavily with seasoning salt, an MSG allergy sufferer's enemy. The four salads, or mazza, promised on the menu were absent.

My co-diner went kebabbing for flavor with the mix grill combo featuring chicken, lamb and kofta, or kufta, depending on the part of the menu you look at. (The dish is a cylindrical take on a meatball of seasoned ground beef or lamb). The side items were the same as the gyro's; those fries were not going to be ignored. The kofta offered a pungent aroma, and, in contrast to the lentil soup, was overseasoned with a concoction of spices that left the palate momentarily obliterated. (Thank goodness for the lentil soup.) The chicken and lamb looked appealing on their 2-foot skewers but were so dry that between the two of us we couldn't finish even half of the meat. The roasted potato was, in fact, the highlight of the meal.

At this point, we reminded our server that we had not yet received our appetizers. We were told they were coming and were left to observe that most of the patrons in the restaurant and on the ample patio were taking part in Sultan's hookah menu but not so much the edibles. At most, smokers had a plate of hummus...so we ordered what appeared to be a patron favorite.

It also arrived before the appetizers. The puree was nearly smooth, with a puddle of olive oil and chickpeas in the middle. It too was virtually flavorless, having very little garlic flavor and no tahini—which while being a controversial addition for a hummus purist, would have aided this little number tenfold. We received no bread to accompany it.

Then the appetizers arrived. It had taken so long, it was as though we'd just met someone we'd only heard tall tales about. The falafel were perfect little golden balls, with a shocking green center and a heat that came out of nowhere, right up the throat after the swallow. They were unusually spicy compared with conventional falafel, and the nail in their coffin was an accompanying yogurt sauce that my companion would concur had seen better days...or expiration dates.

The stuffed grape leaves never arrived. What did arrive, with a verbal announcement of "And here are your stuffed grape leaves," was kibbeh. Vastly different from dolma, kibbeh is a bulgur shell traditionally stuffed with spiced lamb and fried golden brown. Though given the wrong name, the kibbeh were by far the best thing about my inaugural visit. The crunchy shell gave way to perfectly seasoned meat and pine nuts. It's a shame there's no trace of the kibbeh on the menu.

Our server finally produced the array of promised mazza—dishes of tzatziki (cucumber, garlic, mint and yogurt), roasted zucchini, eggplant, roasted poblano, chili yogurt and a very fishy concoction of squid, yogurt and garlic. With no bread, we tried one or two on our meats before sarcastically agreeing, "This must be what the fries are for!"

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