Review: Genki Sushi & Steak

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, Dec 6 2007

Chicken udon is a deep, hearty bowl of mild soy-mirin-infused broth snaked with thick strands of sticky udon noodles with scallions floating amongst the strips of moist chicken breast.

Maybe skip the chicken don buri, a stiff pasty bowl of rice with overcooked scrambled egg and strips of dried chicken breast welded into a casserole-like mass of mortar.

tom jenkins

Covered dishes of sushi march past on Genki's conveyor belt, a sort of perpetual eating machine.

Location Info

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Genki Sushi & Steak

14902 Preston Road
Dallas, TX 75254-9191

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: North Dallas

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Details

Sushi $4.50-$7.50
Buffet $15.95 per person
Grilled ika $7.95
Soft-shell crab $8.50
Genki steak $19.95
Bento dinner $15.95
Chicken udon dinner $10.95
Chicken don buri dinner $10.50

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The antidote is on the dry board. Grilled ika—a smooth squid steak resting on a fluffy bed of romaine with the same steak-perfect grill marks, this time rendered in bronze—is a little cool, but it's buttery lush and so tender it dissolves across the tongue with just a slight piercing of lemon to foil and enliven the fabric.

Soft-shell crab, overwhelmed with a thick coat of panko crusting, is nevertheless greaseless, crisp and sweet without the mushiness that so often claims your pleasure.

Amongst the varied rabble of sushi outlets spreading across North Texas, Genki is not among the best. Service is shoddy. Décor is a jarring stew of tangents. And the conveyor belt buffet is a weird gimmick.

But at Genki it works. This is probably the best conveyor belt sushi I've ever sampled (no hard dried rice or fish with wilting, shriveled edges). Yet despite the energy implicit in the name, you'll find that staring at the conveyor with a little Zipang on board will make you very sleepy.

14902 Preston Road, Suite 5128, 972-788-2629. Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$