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Review: BLT Steak

Continued from page 1

Published on January 09, 2008 at 11:03am

Sides are as good as these. Brussels sprouts (the carcinogenic antidote to red meat worries) with bacon and onion are cooked barely past crisp. Au gratin potatoes, thick stair-stepped potato disks, have bold savory flavors that fail to infiltrate the thick potato.

Finishes are equal to these. Lemon sorbet is as creamy as it is refreshingly electric. Lemon-cassis meringue pie, topped with marshmallow-sized pellets of meringue instead frosted with the stuff, is as complex as it is invigorating.

What BLT does effectively is take the animalistic itches coarsely cultured by traditional steakhouses and scratch them with a luxe, modernist rusticity to assuage the sophisticate in all of us. Don't forget your Montblanc.

5301 Alpha Road, 972-726-9200. Open 11:45 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11:45 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$$-$$$$

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